Hvittrask was the studio/residence of three great Finnish architects (commonswikimedia.org) |
Kirkkonummi, Finland — Not only is Hvittrask in Finland
difficult to pronounce, but it also takes
a little effort to reach it. Once there however, the visit is worth the adventure
with the added benefit of getting some exercise by walking through the Finnish
countryside.
Hvittrask
was once the home of the pioneering Finnish architects and partners Herman Gesellius, Armas Lindgren and Eeliel Saarinen with
Saarinen being the best known of the three.
Eeliel Saarinen (wikipedia.org) |
Situated
approximately 18 miles outside of Helsinki ,
the Hvittrask complex was constructed in the Finnish version of art nouveau
architecture later christened as "Finnish National Romantism."
Incorporating the British Gothic Revival, Finnish wooden architecture and
Jugendstil, a German art nouveau style meaning "Youth Style" that was
Saarinen's early form of architecture,
Finnish National Romanticism culminated in his 1904 design of the Helsinki
Central railway station.
The
project was not constructed until 1910 through 1914, however.
Helsinki's central railway station was designed by Eeliel Saarinen (wikipedia.org). |
Taking
some of its inspiration from medieval castles, the studio/residence at
Hvittrask capitalized upon the necessary elements for architectural creativity,
not the least of which was an understanding of light and the role it plays in
design.
Eeliel
Saarinen's first major achievement for his firm put him on the architectural
map with the construction of the Finnish pavilion at the World Fair in Paris in 1900.
Finns are known for their craftsmanship (Finland.fi) |
If
nothing else, Hvittrask is the quintessential example of the creative talents
of the Finnish people.
Gateway Arch in St. Louis was designed by Eero Saarinen, Eliel's son (wikimedia.org) |
Eeliel
Saarinen was the father of Eero Saarinen who is perhaps most famous to
Americans for designing the Gateway Arch in St. Louis .
From
1896 to 1905, Eeliel worked as a partner in the architectural firm of Gesellius, Lindgren and Saarinen. It was
during this time the three designers decided to build a home just outside Helsinki where they could
concentrate on their work in a creative atmosphere conducive exclusively to the
requirements of their craft.
Three architects lived at Hvittrask in the early 1900s (commonswikimedia.org) |
Construction
on Hvittrask began in 1902, and though the three men and their families did not
occupy the site for very long, it provided a haven for their work that has long
since been turned into a fascinating museum.
Nestled
on a hillside overlooking Lake
Vittrask , the home has
stunning views of the surrounding forests and lake that offer access to the
deeply passionate love of nature so typical of the Finnish character. Hvittrask
translates to mean "white lake" in English, and it is within this
setting the three men derived much of their inspiration for a brief period in
their lives.
Ainola, home of Jean Sibelius (wikipedia) |
Much
like Ainola, the forested home of Finnish national composer Jean Sibelius,
Hvittrask provided the same seclusion and peaceful surroundings that are so
conducive to the creative process.
Unlike
Ainola however, Hvittrask does require a bit of effort to reach unless visitors
are able to access it by car. Otherwise, to get there, a visitor must take a
train to Luoma and then walk about a half-mile through the countryside to the
site. Be forewarned, Luoma will not remind you of Grand Central Station, so be
alert not to miss it.
As one
would expect at a place occupied by three architects, everything at Hvittrask
is designed to enhance the needs of their art. Pay particular attention to the
detail of the furnishings in the living areas as well as the studio itself, the
windows are huge and slanted to maximize the ambient light. Art nouveau lovers
will be especially enthralled by the detailing of the property combined with its
clever use of space.
The Lutheran Cathedral in Helsinki is impressive when visitors arrive from the sea (wikipedia) |
Beginning
each May, Hvittrask is open to visitors only during the summer and months of
early fall, but it is a site where weather patterns and seasons create a
variety of moody atmospheres through its
shadows and silhouettes thanks to its changeable light and colors.
Lest you
think Hvittrask was once the home of three stuffy architects and their wives,
consider that the intimate proximity of trio of families led to some interesting
marital arrangements including two of the partners actually exchanging wives.
Aalto Vases are a favorite Finnish design (wikimedia) |
That is
to say, not wife swapping, but wife changing which most certainly must have led
to unique family gatherings during the holidays.
Today
the property also features a small cafe and gift shop set amid the tranquility
of Finnish woodlands and lakes.
Entrance to Eeliel Saarinen's central rail station in downtown Helsinki (wikipedia.org) |
Travelers with a spirit of adventure who enjoy a brief stroll in the countryside will find their ultimate destination at Hvittrask to be a view into the past by men who gazed into the future.
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