Friday, May 11, 2018

Hvittrask: Home of Finland's architectural genius

Hvittrask was the studio/residence of three great Finnish
architects  (commonswikimedia.org)

Kirkkonummi, Finland — Not only is Hvittrask in Finland difficult to pronounce,  but it also takes a little effort to reach it. Once there however, the visit is worth the adventure with the added benefit of getting some exercise by walking through the Finnish countryside.

Hvittrask was once the home of the pioneering Finnish architects and partners Herman Gesellius, Armas Lindgren and Eeliel Saarinen with Saarinen being the best known of the three.
Eeliel Saarinen
(wikipedia.org)

Situated approximately 18 miles outside of Helsinki, the Hvittrask complex was constructed in the Finnish version of art nouveau architecture later christened as "Finnish National Romantism." Incorporating the British Gothic Revival, Finnish wooden architecture and Jugendstil, a German art nouveau style meaning "Youth Style" that was Saarinen's early  form of architecture, Finnish National Romanticism culminated in his 1904 design of the Helsinki Central railway station.

The project was not constructed until 1910 through 1914, however.

Helsinki's central railway station was designed by Eeliel Saarinen
(wikipedia.org).

Taking some of its inspiration from medieval castles, the studio/residence at Hvittrask capitalized upon the necessary elements for architectural creativity, not the least of which was an understanding of light and the role it plays in design.

Eeliel Saarinen's first major achievement for his firm put him on the architectural map with the construction of the Finnish pavilion at the World Fair in Paris in 1900.

Finns are known for their
craftsmanship (Finland.fi)

Finland is a country filled with creative genius in virtually every artistic discipline. Whether the six months of bitter cold and darkness contribute to the inspirational magic that emanates from the tiny Scandinavian country is debatable, but travelers are often surprised at the superb quality of Finnish architecture, arts and crafts, performance art, music and contemporary design.

If nothing else, Hvittrask is the quintessential example of the creative talents of the Finnish people.
Gateway Arch in St. Louis was designed by Eero Saarinen, Eliel's
son (wikimedia.org)
Eeliel Saarinen was the father of Eero Saarinen who is perhaps most famous to Americans for designing the Gateway Arch in St. Louis.

From 1896 to 1905, Eeliel worked as a partner in the architectural firm of  Gesellius, Lindgren and Saarinen. It was during this time the three designers decided to build a home just outside Helsinki where they could concentrate on their work in a creative atmosphere conducive exclusively to the requirements of their craft.
Three architects lived at Hvittrask in the early 1900s
(commonswikimedia.org)
Construction on Hvittrask began in 1902, and though the three men and their families did not occupy the site for very long, it provided a haven for their work that has long since been turned into a fascinating museum.

Nestled on a hillside overlooking Lake Vittrask, the home has stunning views of the surrounding forests and lake that offer access to the deeply passionate love of nature so typical of the Finnish character. Hvittrask translates to mean "white lake" in English, and it is within this setting the three men derived much of their inspiration for a brief period in their lives.
Ainola, home of Jean Sibelius
(wikipedia)

Much like Ainola, the forested home of Finnish national composer Jean Sibelius, Hvittrask provided the same seclusion and peaceful surroundings that are so conducive to the creative process.

Unlike Ainola however, Hvittrask does require a bit of effort to reach unless visitors are able to access it by car. Otherwise, to get there, a visitor must take a train to Luoma and then walk about a half-mile through the countryside to the site. Be forewarned, Luoma will not remind you of Grand Central Station, so be alert not to miss it.

As one would expect at a place occupied by three architects, everything at Hvittrask is designed to enhance the needs of their art. Pay particular attention to the detail of the furnishings in the living areas as well as the studio itself, the windows are huge and slanted to maximize the ambient light. Art nouveau lovers will be especially enthralled by the detailing of the property combined with its clever use of space.
The Lutheran Cathedral in Helsinki is impressive when visitors
arrive from the sea  (wikipedia)

Beginning each May, Hvittrask is open to visitors only during the summer and months of early fall, but it is a site where weather patterns and seasons create a variety of  moody atmospheres through its shadows and silhouettes thanks to its changeable light and colors.

Lest you think Hvittrask was once the home of three stuffy architects and their wives, consider that the intimate proximity of trio of families led to some interesting marital arrangements including two of the partners actually exchanging wives.
Aalto Vases are a favorite Finnish
design  (wikimedia)
 


That is to say, not wife swapping, but wife changing which most certainly must have led to unique family gatherings during the holidays.

Today the property also features a small cafe and gift shop set amid the tranquility of Finnish woodlands and lakes.

Entrance to Eeliel Saarinen's central rail station in downtown
Helsinki  (wikipedia.org)

Travelers with a spirit  of adventure who enjoy a brief stroll in the countryside will find their ultimate destination at Hvittrask to be a view into the past by men who gazed into the future.


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