Friday, January 26, 2018

Danang, Vietnam 50 years after the war

Linh Ung Pagoda -- the 220-foot white statue of the Goddess of Mercy is the tallest deity sculpture in SE Asia  (Taylor)
DANANG, VIETNAM Most Baby Boomers don't remember the end of World War II but what they do recall was that following the war, anything labeled with a stamp that read "Made in Japan" meant cheap, tacky and poor quality.

Not any more.

Those same "boomers" later provided most of the military forces in Vietnam during the mid-1960s to early 1970s, but by then their focus was completely different.
Monkey Mountain is a favorite
spot for everyone (Taylor) 

What is amazing since those days during the 20th century is the resilience and economic durability of both Japan and Vietnam to rejoin the brotherhood of man.

Danang is the fourth largest city in Vietnam and the largest city in the central part of the country. As a major port and gateway to the South China Sea at the opening of the Han River, today Danang thrives that is destined to become a major tourist destination during the next decade.
My Khe Beach is better known as "China Beach" (mykhebeach.com)
Already major hotel chains and casinos are adding properties in preparation for the influx of Vietnam vets and their families who will return to a far different environment than they knew a half century ago.

Easily accessible by land or sea, Danang is within 60 to 70 miles of several UNESCO World Heritage sites, making it an easy destination to use as a base for touring Vietnam.
Temple on Monkey Mountain
(Taylor)

Danang is known by several names but the best known refers to the Han River estuary which is generally a Vietnamese adaptation meaning "opening of a large river."
Danang proudly boasts of six masterpiece bridges throughout the city, including the Rong (Dragon) Bridge, the Thuan Phuoc, the country's longest cable-stayed bridge and the Song Han (Han River) Bridge. The Song Han is Vietnam's first swing bridge which swivels 90-degrees each day between 1:30 and 4:00 am to allow ships to pass.
Dragon Bridge is one of six masterpiece bridges in Danang
(wikipedia)
With such architectural credentials, Danang is justifiably known as "the city of bridges."

Travelers and locals alike love to gather at the one-of-a-kind Dragon Bridge each Saturday and Sunday at 10 pm when it ejects fire and water from its mouth.
Lions and dragons are popular
subjects for statues  (Taylor)

Most of the bridges are relatively new, adding further emphasis to the budding economy and Danang's popularity as a travel destination.

Just across the road from beautiful My Khe Beach, better known to Americans as China Beach thanks to the popular television series, sits the mostly deserted Da Nang Air Force Base.
My Khe Beach at dusk is more tranquil than it was 50-years
ago  (mykhebeach.com)
The onetime French facility was a major base for the United States during the war. Today, with large Quonset Huts remaining on the grounds, the facility still conjures images of the days of Robin Williams' portrayal of the war in "Good Morning Vietnam."
Danang Air Base still exists but soon it will home to luxury hotels
(wikipedia)
Visitors hoping to view that landmark need to hurry however, because it won't be long before it becomes the home for massive elegant beachfront hotels.
Reminders of the war
 (commons wikimedia)

In that sense, this is one aspect of Danang's history the Vietnamese will happily erase from their memories.

Not far from the city center, Non Nuoc Beach is historically famous because it was a popular R&R destination for American soldiers during the war. Both Non Nuoc and My Khe Beaches are today the sites of some of the most exclusive resorts in Vietnam.
Non Nuoc Beach is another popular spot to soak up the sun
(vietnamguide.com)
Just south of Danang the rocky limestone outcroppings of the Marble Mountains offer hiking paths leading to forested cliffs with stunning views of Non Nuoc Beach and the South China Sea.
The Marble Mountains dominate
the landscape (wikipedia)

Even more dynamic are the cliff caves that were once occupied by Cham people and later, several interior pagodas that were build during the Nguyen Dynasty.

To avoid the heat of the city, another popular retreat for locals and visitors alike is Son Tra (Monkey) Mountain. Just 35-minutes by car, Monkey Mountain is an architectural and panoramic wonder rising about 2,300 feet above sea level. 
 The impressive Linh Ung Pagoda (Goddess of Mercy) (Taylor)
Hailed as the tallest statue of the deity in Southeast Asia, the main attraction is the Linh Ung Pagoda. The 220-foot white female sculpture of the Goddess of Mercy stands atop a lotus-shaped platform featuring 17 levels inside with 21 miniature Buddha statues.
Two dragon sculptures line the stairs at Monkey Mountain (Taylor)
Entrance is free, but plan ahead because it does become extremely crowded during special events.

The Lucky Temple is part of a cave system once inhabited by
the Champa Kingdom  (wikipedia)
Venturing approximately 40 miles west from Danang, My So'n is a thousand year old archaeological site situated in a remote forested area that once contained more than 70 temples and stupas.

The onetime capital of the Champa Kingdom was heavily damaged during the war, but still retains enough surviving structures to be a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Exotic temples are a hallmark
of Danang  (Taylor)


Time was, not so very long ago, that the mention of Vietnam often sent young American men to Canada to avoid participating in an unpopular politicized war.

Now, half a century later, Vietnam is making a comeback that will only see a major rise in tourism within the coming decade. For a central location as a base, Danang has much to offer.

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