Culture, literature, music and candlelight give Leipzig a rich history

St Thomas Church in Leipzig was one of two locations where Johann Sebastian Bach was choirmaster  (Image: Public Domain)

LEIPZIG, GERMANY — Bach, Goethe and Clara Schumann give Leipzig much to celebrate this year in Germany's tenth largest city.

Leipzig has always been a major
European crossroads
(Courtesy: Leipzig Travel)

Since the days of the Holy Roman Empire, Leipzig has been situated at the intersection of two major medieval trade routes. As an international crossroads, it became one of the most important centers of culture, particularly in the fields of publishing and music.

Bach was a native of
Leipzig (Courtesy:
Leipzig Travel)

As the birthplace of Johan Sebastian Bach, Leipzig's musical legacy stands front an center in a city that undeniably ranks in status with other European nations. What makes 2019 so special however, is that it honors the heritage of other contributions which only add to the richness of Leipzig's euphonious endowment.

Beginning in late February, from the 22nd to the 24th, the Clara Schumann Festival honors the 200th anniversary of her birth.

Clara and Robert Schumann were beloved in Leipzig
(Photo: Public Domain)

Regarded as one of the most distinguished composers and pianists of her day, Schumann's concert career spanned more than 60-years. Among her achievements was altering the format and repertoire of piano recitals.

Another innovation was being one of the first pianists to play from memory during recital performances.

Johannes Brahams
(Photo: Public Domain)

Clara Schumann's prolific body of work included piano concertos, chamber pieces and choral works. She was also the first person to publicly perform any work by JohannesBrahams who was unknown at the time.

Clara married Robert Schumann in 1840, one day before her 21st birthday. Though 9 years older than his wife, Robert Schumann's marriage became a legendary business partnership that endeared the couple to Germans throughout their careers.

Clara's father had long opposed the marriage and following a long and acrimonious battle, the couple waited until parental consent was no longer required to wed.

Though Clara's demeanor was that of being fragile and mild, her decision to marry demonstrated a strong-willed personality that captivated German romantic sensibilities.

Before their marriage, the couple secretly rendezvoused often in small cafes in nearby cities following one of her concerts just to steal a few minutes together.

During their 16 year union, which ended in 1856 when Robert died in an asylum, they had eight children.

One of the most intriguing aspects of the Schumann's bond were secret messages Robert incorporated into his music in tribute to their devotion to each other.

Johann Wolfgang von Goethe contributed to Leipzig's literary
legacy  (Photo: Public Domain)

Not to be overlooked is also Leipzig's contribution to literature. As a student in the city, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, more commonly known simply as Goethe, was a regular patron at the basement-level restaurant Auerbach's Keller.

Even in the 16th century, the second oldest restaurant in Leipzig, had the reputation as an one of Germany's most important wine bars.

Auerbach's Keller is as popular now as it was in Goethe's day
(Photo: Public Domain)

Thanks in large part to Goethe, Auerbach's Keller's fame spread throughout the world, as a result of being the first place Mephistopheles takes Faust during their journey.

The Auerbach's Keller scene in Goethe's play Faust serves as a literary memorial to his favorite wine bar during his time at Leipzig University.

Goethe's inspiration came from two 1625 paintings in the establishment; one showing Johann Georg Faust, the well-known magician and astrologer, drinking with students and the other a depiction of Faust riding out of the bar upon a wine barrel. The second painting represented something that could only have occurred with the aid of the Devil.

Today, the restaurant is located beneath the Mädlerpassage, a historic covered passage built from 1912 to 1914 at Grimmaische Straße 2 in Leipzig's historical district. It contains five historic dining rooms as well as the Mephisto Bar on the floor above.

Thomas Church was Bach's
home for 27 years
(Photo: S kay -- Public Domain)

Not far away, the historic Thomaskirche (Church of St. Thomas) adds to Leipzig's musical legacy thanks largely to Johan Sebastian Bach who was choirmaster there for 27 years.

Believe it or not, even without Bach however, the church was instrumental in Leipzig's fame. It was at the Thomaskirche in May, 1539 that Martin Luther introduced the Protestant Reformation to Leipzig. 

In 1789, 250 years later, Mozart played the church organ there, and in centuries that followed both Felix Mendelssohn and Richard Wagner also performed at the church.

Leipzig at the turn of the 20th century (Image: Public Domain)

The church choir has been in existence since 1254. Today the Thomas Choir features 80 boys singing music particularly dedicated to Bach in weekly performances of motets and cantatas, as well as regular Sunday services.

But there's more to this story with contemporary roots that date only as far back as 30 years.

             

Though the Church of St. Thomas was Bach's primary venue in Leipzig, he was also choirmaster at St. NicholasChurch during the period of 1723 to 1750.  Oddly enough, St. Nicholas is nearly a hundred years older than St. Thomas dating to ll65. 

St. Nicholas Church sits at an important intersection in Leipzig
(Courtesy: Leipzig Travel)

St. Nicholas Church is situated at the intersection of two important north-south, east-west trade routes which not only played an important role in Leipzig’s past, but was also critical to the events that reunited Germany in 1989.

Each November during the early 1980s, young people from all over the region would gather at St. Nicholas Church for ten days of prayer for peace. 

Peaceful protesters made regular demonstrations in the late 1980s
 (Photo: German Federal Archives --licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Germany license)

With large demonstrations all over East Germany protesting the arms race, the gatherings in Leipzig were regarded as nothing more than non-violent prayer vigils.  The only places where issues could be openly discussed in Germany were at meetings held in churches, and the Church of St. Nicholas was one of those sites.

      

Soon a youth group from the church decided to increase the meetings by having prayer services every Monday evening.

Demonstration in 1989
(Courtesy: Leipzig Travel)

Slowly the movement gathered strength.  Each day the church was decorated with flowers and each night it was filled with the light of hundreds of glowing candles. 

After a while the government took notice and became concerned. From May of 1989 all access roads to Nicholas Church were blocked by police checkpoints.  . 

By October, the militia battered defenseless East Germans in the streets, but they remained passive, refusing to fight back. 

Hundreds were taken away in trucks.  Many others were locked up in stables, but the people continued to pray. 

Candlelight vigil
1989 (Courtesy:
Leipzig Travel)

Thousands of East Germans stood  in the square with candles in their hands.  To carry a candle outdoors requires two hands.  One holds the candle while the other prevents it from going out.  Therefore, to keep a candle burning it's not possible to carry a stick or a club. 

When police arrived, they didn't know what to do. Bewildered, they quickly lost any incentive to fight.   

Eventually the police withdrew.  As one officer said, “We were prepared for everything.  Everything, that is, except candlelight.”

Since that time in 1989, Leipzig has been known by many as the "City of Heroes."

Massive organ in the St Nicholas Church in Leupzig
(Courtesy:  (Roel van der Hoorn)

From as far back as 1254 to the present, 765 years, Leipzig's legacy of culture, literature, music and, yes, candlelight endure.

Leipzig is a traveler's journey through time -- past, present and, hopefully, future.