The Brienzer Rothorn train chugs high above the Lake of Thun (wikipedia.com) |
BERNESE OBERLAND,
SWITZERLAND — There
is nowhere on the planet with a better transportation network than Switzerland, and the Swiss Travel System is
the most efficient, easiest to use, best connected and most convenient railway
system as well.
The Swiss Travel System is more than an interconnecting
web of railways. Rather it is a concept that takes mobility to new heights,
both figuratively and literally.
Around a bend (brienzerrothorn.ch) |
Not only do the Swiss Federal Railways (SBB, CFF or FFS
depending upon whether you speak German, French or Italian) serve as the
foundation that intertwines thousands of rail lines in a mesh of parallel steel
tracks, the system also includes local buses, trams, private rail services,
postal buses, ferries, lake steamers, cable cars and funiculars.
So, with a little planning and not much effort, it is
possible to see much of the country from one form of transportation or more
while setting your watch to the arrival and departure times.
Steaming into the Alps (brienzerrothorn.ch) |
One railway in the Bernese Oberland, for example, is the
Brienzer Rothorn Rack Railway which climbs from the woodcarver's village of Brienz
on the shores of Lake
Brienz nearly five miles
to a summit at more than 7,300 feet above sea level.
Following two years of construction, the railway opened
in June of 1892 using a newly developed technology designed by Roman Abt known
as the Abt double lamella rack system.
The little engine that could (brienzerrothorn.ch) |
Today the Brienzer Rothorn Train is the fourth highest
railway in Switzerland
and can be accessed by car, rail or water. However, until 1916, the only way to
get there was by boat service on the Lake of Brienz .
Soon after it opened, the line ran into financial
difficulties due to low capacity. Designed to carry 25,000 passengers a year,
it only managed to accommodate 5,000 in the first year. Later the problem was
magnified with the opening of the nearby Schynige Platte Railway in 1895 and
the Jungfraubahn in 1898.
The Jungfrau train remains the highest railway in Europe and second highest in the world today.
High above the clouds looking down on Lake Brienz (brienzerrothorn.ch) |
Thus, the Brienzer Rothorn ceased operating in 1914 due
to World War I and did not re-open until June of 1931.
Thanks to superb maintenance, even during its 17-year
hiatus in service, the railway was relatively easy to recondition. Unlike other
Swiss mountain trains the BRB, as it is most frequently referred to by locals,
was not electrified.
Scenic wonders near Interlaken (brienzerrothorn.ch) |
From 1953 until 1990 it was full steam ahead for the
"little engine that could" as it pushed and shoved its way high into
the Alps as the only line operating by steam
only. Other lines now offer special "steam" trips and diesel locomotives
along with electric trains, but the Brienzer still huffs and puffs its way to
the top.
Boats are a great way to arrive at the Rothorn train (wikipedia.org) |
The line begins in Brienz just a few short steps from the
main railway station on the Lake of Brienz or by
steamer at the dock used by BLS AG Shipping. Boats take about an hour to cross
from Interlaken
to Brienz.
It is also easy to arrive
by car.
The amazing one hour train ride is a kaleidoscope of
scenery passing through five tunnels that reveal lush green pastures, meadows,
forests and sheer chiseled rock faces. Just when you think you have reached the
top, the train bends around a corner and new worlds re-open above and below.
When push comes to shove (brienzerrothorn.ch) |
Panoramic car with the lake far below (brienzerrothorn.ch) |
The railway consists of a single track with three passing
loops to allow for two-way traffic.
Geldreid is the first at slightly more than 3,300 feet.
Next comes Planalp Station, the halfway point in the
journey. Here older steam locomotives take on water before continuing the
climb.
Oberstafel is the third passing loop before arriving at
the upper terminus at Rothorn Kulm station just below the summit of the
mountain.
Leave it to the Swiss to recognize the need for visitor
comfort. Regardless of which mountain train you take anywhere in the country,
there are always restaurants and restrooms along the way and at the final stop.
Hiking is also popular (brienzerrothorn.ch) |
Once at the top, many people enjoy hiking along the trail
connecting Brunig-Hasliberg station with the Rothorn.
The BRB frequently has specialty services throughout the
year. Every Tuesday is Senior Citizens Day where female riders 64 and above and
male passengers 65 and up receive a discount as well as an included lunch.
The Steam Sausage Cruiser operates each Wednesday during the season (brienzerrothorn,ch) |
On Wednesdays beginning at 10 am, try the
Dampfwürstlibummler, the Steam Sausage Cruiser, where you can sample delicious “Heizerwürstli”
Steam Sausages along with rack rail bread and a drink.
On Sundays in July, August and September riders can
depart at 7:30 in the morning to watch day break far below.
Daybreak on the Brienzer Rothorn route (brienzerrothorn.ch) |
Travelers who arise before dawn can even catch a 5:30 am
train during four specified Saturdays twice in July and twice in August.
For those who prefer to sleep in, there are evening
excursions as well which include a three-course dinner at the Rothorn Kulm
Restaurant amid moon and starlit villages and lakes.
Breakfast run into the Alps (brienzerrothorn.ch) |
For true gourmands, the Salon Rouge special combines onboard
cuisine aboard a stylish vintage train coach. Hot and cold selection range
between one and 13 courses as you are pushed by a first-generation engine
accompanied by a small cargo car.
Travelers using a Swiss Travel
Pass receive a 50%
discount on the Brienzer Rothorn train and the cable car from Sörenberg to the
Brienzer Rothorn while the train to Brienz and the bus to Sörenberg are free.
Passing at one of the three loops where the track splits (brienzerrothorn.ch) |
If this all sounds too good to be true, just remember,
the Brienzer Rothorn is just one of hundreds of unique rail journeys in Switzerland .
But as we said, Switzerland just may be the best
transportation network in the world.
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