The Centovalli Railway passes through Switzerland and Italy (wikipedia) |
Once the laughter subsides,
the jokes made and the pictures taken however, this picturesque two-hour train
excursion through Italian Switzerland and the northern tip of Italy is a gem.
Every place has a view on the Centovalli train (wikipedia) |
With 83 bridges and 31
tunnels, the Centovalli Railway is a source of perpetual delight. Food services are not available aboard the
trains, and there are no reservations.
Best of all, passengers with a Swiss Rail Pass or a Eurailpass travel
free.
Railway station on the Centovalli line (wikipedia) |
From the other direction, the
Centovalli Railway departs from a stunning mosaic-lined underground terminal in
Locarno before
it surfaces into brilliant sunlight just outside of Ponte Brolla. No matter which way you choose, bring your
passport because there is a check at the border.
Diversity is the secret to
Centovalli’s charms. Plunging rocks dive
into canyons of cascading streams.
Tracks twist. Rails sing. Waterfalls hide behind each bend, delighting
passengers who rush from one side of the coach to the other to catch a
glimpse. Crystal lakes glisten below towering trestles
that disappear into tunnels before re-emerging into sun splashed forests and
vineyards.
There are fresco-covered
villages, ancient stone cottages and historic churches all blended with Swiss
efficiency and Italian flair. The sleek,
cream-colored coaches with blue trim feature over-sized windows for maximum
viewing. Trains with panoramic cars,
however, do require a small additional fee on the Italian portion of the
journey. The supplement can be paid to
the conductor during the ride.
Locals regard the railway as
a lifeline. Visitors, however, use it
primarily as a transfer route and, in the process, often fail to realize much
of its value as destination unto itself.
One hundred valleys plus waterfalls, lakes and mountains (wikipedia) |
The way to enjoy the
Centovalli is to make a day of it. Hop
on and off now and then and savor the rewards of its riches. There is no real advantage to taking the
train from east to west or vice-versa, although the right side of the carriage
is probably best from Domodossola and the left is generally better when riding
from Locarno .
Departing from Domodossola,
the Italian village
of Santa Maria Maggiore ,
population approximately 1,200, nestles
about 10 miles down the tracks. The town
features a couple of small museums, but the cobblestoned, tree-lined streets
filled with ancient architecture and wrought iron balconies are a highlight.
Next stop along the line is Re which lies just 4 miles from the Swiss border. It’s a popular site for the faithful who make pilgrimages to the church to view the miracle of its bleeding Madonna.
At Verdasio, take the
picturesque cable car up to the remote village of Rasa. There’s not much to do there, but the ride to
the summit, and its peaceful isolation, is worth the trip. Adventurous travelers often hike to Rasa from
Locarno.
The parish church of Intragna reaches above
the treetops in the town regarded as the gateway to the Centovalli. Completed in 1775, the church tower remains
the tallest spire in the region and is a
popular landmark along the route.
The tiny stone village of Borgnone (wikipedia) |
Just before the train reaches
Ponte Brolla, where it ducks into the underground that arrives in Locarno, the
Centovalli Railway passes through Verscio.
The village of fewer than 1,000 inhabitants is home to the world famous
Dimitr Theatre School which was founded in 1975. Applicants come from all over the world, but
the school only admits 12 students each year.
Locarno is a great place for
the grand finale of the trip. The lovely
little holiday resort lies on the northern shores of Lake Maggiore. Palm trees gently sway along the perimeter of
the lakeshore promenade. Sidewalk cafes
ease the day into twilight as the shimmering lake reflects the rising moon.
Castles, museums, gardens and
nearby Ascona are also there, waiting for another day. Patience is a virtue. Why rush?
They will still be there for a happy tomorrow. Forget the checklist and the “been there,
done that”
style of travel. Absorb the surroundings
through your pores. There are memories
to be made.
The Centovalli Railway may
indeed be the most romantic rail journey in Switzerland. After all, it’s the perfect way to travel if
you just want to FART around Switzerland and Italy.
Everywhere you look there are charming villages and churches on the Centovalli Railway (wikipedia) |
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