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| Aerial view of "mad" King Ludwig II's fairy tale castle of Newschwanstein in Bavaria (wikipedia) |
BAVARIA, GERMANY – When it comes to
exploring Bavaria in Germany, Munich
is the ideal spot for as a base.
Dating to the early days of
the Holy Roman Empire, Bavaria is the largest state in the country, comprising
about 20% of Germany’s land area.
When the Holy Roman Empire
was abolished by Napoleon, Bavaria became a kingdom in 1806 leading to a
building binge that still attracts millions of visitors each year.
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| Hohenschwangau as seen from Neuschwanstein (wikipedia) |
With castles such as Neuschwanstein,
Hohenschwangau and Linderhof plus lush Alpine scenery and the dozens of
captivating historic villages, Bavaria is a traveler’s delight.
Bavarians are deeply
independent. So much so that they frequently refer to themselves as “Bavarians“
first and “Germans“ second.
Traveling along two-lane
country roads, the oval rococo Pilgrimage Church of Weis, or Weiskirche, in Steingadan is situated in
the foothills of the Alps.
The story goes that someone
observed tears on a run-down wooden carving called the “Scourged Savior“ in 1738. Almost overnight, Weiskirche became a treasured pilgrimage
site.
Over the years, so many
testimonials have been given by those who prayed to the statue of Jesus at the
altar, that the church has arguably become the most important pilgrimage place
in Germany.
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| The pilgrimage site of Weiskirche, a UNESCO World Heritage Site (wikipedia) |
By 1740, the number of
pilgrims had grown so large that the church had to be expanded. In 1983, Weiskirche became a UNESCO World
Heritage Site and has undergone two major renovations since.
For nine years out of each
decade, the quaint village of Oberammergau is relatively peaceful compared to
the throngs of visitors who arrive in any year ending in zero. That’s when the
world famous Passion Play takes place and, other than a few hiccups along the
way, it has been faithfully performed since 1634.
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| Oberammergau's theater for its famous Passion Play (wikipedia) |
Fearful of the plague in the
mid-17th century the people of Oberammergau prayed that their village be
spared. In return, they promised to perform a Passion Play each year.
Before long, the site at the
original parish church became too small to accommodate the massive numbers who
wanted to see the play. Even more demanding were the logistics of performing
the play each year, so the decision was made to do it every decade instead.
Today the theater is a
permanent covered structure accommodating nearly 5,000 patrons. Unfortunately
for the actors, the stage is outdoors and the show goes on rain or shine.
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| Berchtesgadan with a view of the Watzmann (wikipedia) |
Further south, about 20 miles
from the Austrian border and the city of Salzburg, nestles the village of
Berchtesgadan. The town is often closely associated with the Watzmann, which is the third-highest
mountain in Germany.
The Watzmann is well known to rock climbers for its East Face where there is also a
beautiful deep glacial lake called the Konigssee.
Often the Watzmann is overshadowed by the Kehlsteinhaus, or the Eagle’s Nest,
which was built in 1939 as a present for Adolf Hitler’s 50th birthday.
Hitler spent little time
there, however. In fact, even when he was at the Eagle’s Nest his visits were
extremely brief.
Also of interest is the site
of the Berchtesgadener Hof Hotel which counted Eva Braun, Erwin Rommel, Joseph
Goebbels, Heinrich Himmler, David Lloyd George and Neville Chambelain among its
guests.
The hotel became the victim
of a wrecking ball in 2006, but there is a good museum at the location called Haus
der Berge.
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| Ludwig's elegant Linderhof Palace (wikipedia) |
But castle hunting is the
preferred pastime in Bavaria and King Ludwig II does not disappoint. Linderfhof
Palace is the smallest of three castles constructed by Ludwig, but the only one
he ever lived to see completed.
Versailles, outside Paris,
was the inspiration for Linderhof because French King Louis XIV was Ludwig’s
idol.
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| A bedroom at Neuschwanstein (wikipedia) |
Though vastly smaller than
Versailles, Linderhof has more than its share of opulence with a Hall of
Mirrors, a Moorish Kiosk and the Venus Grotto, a luminous lake with changing
colors and a golden swan-boat.
Ludwig’s crown jewel,
however, was Neuschwanstein. Majestically situated atop a rugged hill
overlooking Hohenschwangau Castle near the village of Fussen, Neuschwanstein
represents the quintessential image of what a castle should be. So much so that
it was the inspiration for Walt Disney’s Sleeping Beauty Castle.
Intended as a refuge for the
king, Ludwig died in 1886 before it was finished. Today it attracts more than
1.3 million visitors each year.
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The music room, Neuschwanstein (wikipedia)
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Architecturally Ludwig merged
his passion for the music of Richard Wagner with his own romantic notions of
medieval castles. Somehow when incorporated into the surrounding landscape
where Alpine foothills blend with gently rolling hills, the odd combination of
styles worked.
While his dream castle was
under construction, Ludwig spent his days at nearby Hohenschwangau, the
family’s summer residence which was completed in 1837.
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| Ludwig's dream castle of Neuschwanstein (wikipedia) |
Some say that Ludwig was
“mad.“ Indeed, he was “crazy like a fox“ and Bavaria enhances the magic.
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