Friday, March 1, 2019

Ten great locations for first-time visitors to Italy


Dining al frescoe at Hotel Palumbo in Ravello 
(Courtesy: Hotel Palumbo)
ITALY —  Ralph Waldo Emerson once wrote, "Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is no path and leave a trail.”      

For first-timers to Italy, there is no better advice, although it is guaranteed you will never go where someone else has not already been and written about it.

Mosaics tell a rich history
(Photo: Taylor)
No country in the world has inspired more poets, writers and artists than Italy. So selecting 10 must-see destinations in Italy is a fool's errand because for every place you pick there are a dozen more that qualify.

With that thought in mind, let's just call this a sampler, a starter's kit of sorts to whet your appetite to visit one of the most alluring, captivating and beguiling countries on the face of the earth.

Everyone knows about Chianti Country, but it must be experienced to understand the appeal  (Courtesy: Chianti Country)
Chianti Country:
We begin with a location that offers two for the price of one because it's situated in Tuscany, the heart of one of the most popular regions in the boot.

Chianti often gets a bum rap ax being on the low end of a wine expert's palate, but traveling the rolling countryside filled with radiant fields of sunflowers dotting lush green hills will quickly change your mind.

Savor a glass of Italy's most famous red wine and take home the bottle to use as a classic candlestick holder.

Nothing captures the magic of Florence better than the Duomo at dusk  (Photo: MaĆ«lick from CharleroiBelgium -- licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.0 Generic license)
Florence at dusk:
 Head to Piazzale Michelangelo at sunset in Florence and soak in the magic. Situated on the opposite side of the Arno River from the city center, Piazzale Michelangelo radiates earth tones that wcaptivate your soul; umber, sienna, ochre and other rust-colored browns and tans come alive as streetlights overcome the day.

The Duomo dominates the scene. Romance is in the air in an inescapable shroud. Embrace it, for this is a place to fall in love.
Trastevere is a favorite hangout for Romans
(Courtesy: Travel Italy)
Trastevere, Rome:
 The saying goes "When in Rome, do as the Romans do." Trastevere is the ideal spot in the Italian capital to do just that. In a city known for its food, Trastevere is arguably the best. 

The lively neighborhood is a favorite for locals and that alone should be 'nuff said. Trattorias abound amid colorful food markets and side streets that beckon to be explored.  

Visit Trastevere in the early evening at sunset and don't leave until the wee hours of the morning.


Every place in Ravello is a photo-op -- Villa Ruffalo, Ravello
(Courtesy: Ravello.com)
Ravello, Amalfi Coast:
If heaven is a garden it must look like Ravello. Greta Garbo discovered it. So did Richard Wagner, Gore Vidal and dozens of other celebrities. If you are wondering why it isn't better known due to its famous clientele, it's because they are keeping the secret to themselves.

If you can find more breathtaking views anywhere in the world then tell everyone because Ravello is a 360-degree panorama of beauty that's second to none. With 13th century villas surrounded by perpetually blooming flowers and eternal sunshine, if you miss Ravello, you have not seen Italy.


The Cinque Terre has come into its own in recent years
(Photo: Taylor)

Cinque Terre:
Compared to other destinations in Italy, Cinque Terre is relatively new to the touristic landscape. Part of the appeal of these five seaside villages on the list of UNESCO World Heritage sites is that they can be visited by local trains, from the water or walking.

The 10-mile stretch of small towns overlooking the sea from above captures the spirit of Italy in ways that you have imagined the country to be in your dreams. Dine al fresco in the village of your choice because this is one destination where there is no way to make a mistake.


This is no "Ponza Scheme", the islands of Ponza are for real
(Photo: 
 ta01 --  licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license)
Ponza:
No list of great Italian destinations would be complete without mentioning at least one site that is relatively unknown to most travelers. For our sampler, the miniature islands of the Ponza archipelago gets the nod.

Located just off the coast of Rome, the towering cliffs and spectacular bay of idyllic Chiaia di Luna appear much like an earthly moonscape. The charm of Ponza is that it feels like a secret, yet unlike many "undiscovered" resorts, it is relatively accessible.

Italians say "this is the island where real Romans vacation" thanks to its timelessness and simplicity. And therein lies the magic.
Burano is the lace capital of Venice  (Courtesy: Pixabay)
Burano Island, Venice:
Venice has twin islands, Murano (glass) and Burano (lace) that qualify, but given the limitations of this sampler Burano is the choice.

One reason is that Murano arguably gets more attention from travelers on a tight schedule and that's too bad because Burano's lace is some of the best in the world.
With its compact size and cobblestoned streets, Burano is a great place to take a window-shopping stroll before stopping for some of the best espresso in Venice. We're betting that while you're sipping your coffee however, the window-shopping will ultimately morph into a purchase or two.


Portofino is no longer the tranquil, quaint fishing village of the past  (Photo: Stan Shebs -- licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license)
Portofino:
Thanks to its location along a serpentine road, the Italian fishing village of Portofino is a picturesque commune with a "wow" factor. This is a "lifestyles-of-the-rich-and-famous" site on the Italian Riviera that is filled with narrow tree-lined streets and ancient architecture.

The compact village clusters around a stunning harbor that is never without several ultra-deluxe yachts at anchor. Portofino is one of those places where you just feel richer by taking a stroll.


San Gimignano is famous for its vertical skyline in rural Tuscany
(Courtesy: Discover Tuscany)
San Gimignano, Tuscany:
From a distance San Gimignano's impressive medieval skyline is the thing that beckons travelers to visit. With its tall towers, this Italian version of a New York skyline captivates from the moment you see it.

The dramatic hillside architecture has long been appealing to Hollywood directors as a setting for their films, but once inside, the myriad of cafes will keep you occupied for hours.


Dynamic Hotel San Pietro is a gem in a city of jewels
(Courtesy: Hotel San Pietro)
Positano, Amalfi Coast:
Though Positano prospered from the 15th to the 17th centuries, it was a relatively poor fishing village during the first half of the 20th century.

Starlight dining at San Pietro
(Courtesy: Hotel San Pietro)
That all changed when John Steinbeck published an essay in 1953 in Harper's Bazaar in which he wrote "Positano bites deep. It is a dream place that isn’t quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone."


For some of the best views of the region, stop for lunch at Hotel San Pietro about a mile and a half outside of town. The check might bite a little, but it is well worth it.

To call this a Top Ten list would be unfair to the rest of the country. For now we will just leave it as a primer to sample the flavor of Italy and let you judge for yourself.





Friday, February 22, 2019

Stein am Rhein: Switzerland's tiny storybook village


Stein am Rhein is famous for its bay windows and colorful facades  (Courtesy: MySwitzerland.com)
STEIN AM RHEIN, SWITZERLAND – “Hidden treasures” are the essence of travel and Stein am Rhein, Switzerland is one of those “treasures.”

All too often travelers become so wrapped up in checking cities, attractions and sights off their list they fail to achieve their primary reason for traveling…discovery. 


Great place for a stroll
(Courtesy: MySwitzerland.com)
Alfred North Whitehead reinforced that notion when he wrote “One main factor in the upward trend of animal life has been the power of wandering.”

If ever there was an ideal spot that captures the spirit of the season, the storybook village of Stein am Rhein has to be at the top of the list.

 In many countries Stein am Rhein might be considered remote.  Not in Switzerland.  While it may be off-the-beaten-path, the accessibility of the Swiss Travel System, combined with its proximity to Schaffhausen, Winterthur and other delightful spots along the River Rhine and Lake Constance, make Stein am Rhein a great place as a base for day trips.


With Old World charm and easy access, Stein am Rhein is a great base for day trips  (Courtesy: MySwitzerland.com)
The tiny municipality is a jewel in the canton of Schaffhausen.  Stein am Rhein, which translated means “stone on the Rhine”, lays claim to being the best preserved medieval town in the country, featuring some the finest half-timbered houses in Switzerland. 

If you take your time, you can walk leisurely through this outdoor museum and back in thirty minutes.  Frescoes adorn the facades of the buildings and oriels, or bay windows, overlook delightful cafes and picturesque streets.  In some places, the layers of time have elevated the streets in such a way as to force strollers to duck beneath those bay windows in order to walk under them.


Stein am Rhein is on the banks of
the Rhine River
(Courtesy: Switzerland Tourism)

Situated along the shores of the Rhine, just a short distance from the place where Lake Constance spills into the river on its way to the North Sea, Stein am Rhein became a strategic location during the 11th century.  It was then that Henry II, the fifth, and last, Ottonian emperor of the Holy Roman Empire, moved St. George’s Abbey from Hohentwiel in Singen to what was little more than a quaint fishing village. 

Over time, commerce grew along the river and Stein am Rhein flourished.  The monastery, which was abandoned during the Protestant Reformation, remains a highlight for visitors today. 


Interior of Palagnedra in St. Michael in Stein am Rhein
(Courtesy: MySwitzerland.com)

Located near the Town Hall Square, St. George’s Abbey Museum, as it is commonly referred to now, dedicates its exhibitions to local art and history.  Perhaps of more interest however, are the ceilings, paneling and murals of Thomas Schmid and Ambrosius Holbein.


Portrait of Bonifacius Amerbach by Hans Holbein
(Photo: Public Domain)
Abrosius, the son of Hans Holbein the Elder and the older brother of Hans Holbein the Younger, lived in Stein am Rhein in 1515 while assisting Schmid with the murals in the main hall of the abbey. 

With a population of just 3,000, Stein am Rhein is only twice the size it was during the 1800s.   


Hohenklingen Castle
(Courtesy: MySwitzerland.com)
Adventurous travelers can walk up to the Castle of Hohenklingen, a 13th century fortress overlooking the city where they can view the Lake of Constance and, when weather permits, the Alps.

For less ambitious visitors, there is still plenty to explore including the frescoed facades of the buildings which depict biblical and historical themes throughout town.

In addition, the oriels that elegantly perch above the streets, are symbols of the city’s former affluence, as are the paintings.


Frescoed buildings add to Stein am Rhein's charm as with the village's town hall  (Courtesy: MySwitzerland.com)
Even today, ownership of the frescoed buildings in Stein am Rhein comes with serious obligations to the history of the village.  As a condition of proprietorship, a titleholder must agree to maintain the paintings in the same condition as the originals without compensation for the investment.

With its Lilliputian size, Stein am Rhein is built on a human scale.  It is a charming place for walking and exploration.


It's especially lovely at Christmas
(Courtesy: Stein am Rhein
Tourism)
Most people begin their strolls at the 16th century Town Hall, pausing frequently to admire the frescoes and bay windows before stopping at a cafƩ along the way to savor the surroundings.

You can access Stein am Rhein by car, boat or rail.  The train station sits on a hill across the river
from the main village, but it is only a short walk over the bridge which spans the Rhine.  Bike rentals are available at a kiosk at the railway station.  There are several well-marked bicycle paths along both shores of the river. 

Schaffhausen is just 13-miles to the west or you can peddle eastward to Kreuzlingen which is 18-miles away.

There is also regular boat service between Kreuzlingen, which is easily accessible by rail or car, and Schaffhausen.  Cruises meander through a beautiful region that alternates between Switzerland and Germany. 


The Rhine Falls are the largest in Europe  (Photo: Taylor)
Among the special sights are the Rhine Falls, Europe’s largest waterfall, just outside Schaffhausen.  The cascading torrents of water can be likened to Niagara Falls in miniature.


The Oskar Reinhart Collection at Am Romerholtz is world famous
(Courtesy: MySwitzerland.com)
Another popular place for an outing is nearby Winterthur with its remarkable private art exhibition at Am Romerholtz.  The Oskar Reinhart Collection is known throughout the world as one of the finest of its kind.  Featuring the work of artists such as Monet, Renoir, Van Gogh, Miro and Klee to name a few, the Reinhart Collection is displayed in a private residence rather than a museum. 

Just 17-miles from Stein am Rhein, Winterthur is a convenient 40-minute train ride to the south with hourly service throughout the day.


Stein am Rhein is one of those places you never forget
(Courtesy: MySwitzerland.com
For the traveler who seeks a quiet destination far from the madding crowd yet accessible to a rich diversity of scenery, history, quaint villages and world-class art, Stein am Rhein is a gem to consider.


Friday, February 15, 2019

Save a lot of travel hassles with a touch of tact and etiquerre


In some countries the "OK" sign has extremely vulgar significance  (Photo: Public Domain)

CHARLOTTE, NORTH CAROLINA — Social media has, in many ways, made the world smaller but, in the case of travel, etiquette is one of the first things to suffer.

It's always a good idea to review proper protocols when visiting a new destination by immersing yourself into a different culture. Sometimes the most innocent mistakes can be seen as major insults. One reason we are often labeled "Ugly Americans" by foreign hosts is that we have a tendency to forget that we are guests in another country and fail to do due diligence regarding cultural differences.

One of the simplest ways to ingratiate ourselves to other nationalities is to learn a few basic phrases in their language. Please, thank you, good morning, good evening, pardon me, excuse me and the like are easy to learn and go a long way toward being accepted quickly. Common courtesy works and is greatly appreciated.


Afternoon tea is a British tradition but there is a proper way to do it  (Photo: Mary Cassett - Public Domain) 

Among the favorite destinations for first-time international travelers is the United Kingdom because there is supposedly a common language. Language barriers are often comfort zone killers for inexperienced vagabonds.

Even so, the UK does have some quirky hazards to avoid. Here are some suggestions as to how to be more comfortable in another country. The list is not definitive by any means, but it will give you an idea of things that can ease travel apprehensions.


Brits love their pubs  (Courtesy: Pixabay)

UNITED KINGDOM:

 In England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland avoid questions about one’s health.

When you meet someone new it is best to say, “How do you do?” "How are you?” is acceptable only if the person is already a close friend . 

Be careful about asking someone what they do for a living. It could lead to discussions about money and salaries which is a huge no-no.

Finally, when drinking tea, remember to add milk last.


In Switzerland, punctuality is essential  (Courtesy: Pixabay)

SWITZERLAND:

In a country known for its precision, it's not surprising that punctuality is a key trait of the Swiss. Don't be late.

While you're at it, it's always best to bring a small gift to your host, and to send a thank-you note afterwards.

When greeting someone offer a firm handshake and make eye-contact. That doesn't mean you have to squeeze like George Foreman, but it's better to be too strong than to offer a flounder-like grip.


Even fondue has rules (Photo: JHG -- Public Domain)
You can always pick out the tourists because they eat fondue in summer. Whenever you do it, try not to lose your bread in the liquid ocean of melted cheese. Innocent as it may be, it is not considered good form.

Another fondue faux pas is scraping your fork on the bottom of the pot. It just isn't done.


Join the fun when Germans drink beer  (Photo: Taylor)

GERMANY:

Like the Swiss, tardiness is frowned upon in Germany. In fact, if you're late do not be surprised if your host openly reminds you that you were not on time.

Perhaps more difficult for Americans these days, is arriving in dress that is too casual. Sweats are improper in a country where people dress up for their guests.

As in Switzerland and Japan, you may also be requested to take off your shoes.


When eating, keep your hands on the table (just so they know you don't have any concealed weapons). The weaponry reference is a joke, of course, but it is not polite to put your hands in your lap or to keep them out of view.


Italians have a passion for eating, especially al fresco
(Courtesy: Italian Tourism) 

ITALY:

Politeness protocols and punctuality completely change in Italy. Time is merely a reference point. Being late is a national pastime. The only question is how long do you wait?

Do not expect undivided attention during meetings. Multitasking is the rule rather than the exception and is universally accepted.

In addition, if you are invited to dinner in Italy, forget the possibility of a quiet evening. There's a reason they called it the "family" in The Godfather and the idea of "two's company, three's a crowd" doesn't exist.


There's a reason why The Godfather and the family were so intertwined  (Photo: Taylor)


More than likely ten or 15 family members and/or friends could "drop in" at any time for dessert or after-dinner drinks.

Moving on to Asia and South America briefly, in Argentina being "fashionably late" is standard. Twenty minutes is typically the rule. Conversions usually disregard personal space and can be quite close compared to other countries. Dinners can be uncomfortably long by American and, even, European standards.

Brazil also honors the tradition of being late, including the idea that dinner will not begin at the appointed hour.

Perhaps most important however, is to never, ever make the "OK" sign in Brazil, it is tantamount to "shooting the bird" in the U.S. only ten times over.

In Japan, do not enter a house with holes in your socks because you will be asked to remove your shoes outside.


Always bring a gift for your host. Neatly wrapped colorful packages can literally be found anywhere in the county.


Bowing is a major aspect of Japanese culture but it can be tricky
  (Photo: Maya-AnaĆÆs YataghĆØne  Creative Commons Attribution 2.0 Generic license.) 
Bowing is tricky, but a general rule is the junior person bows first. The deeper the bow determines the level of respect.

Always accept business cards with both hands and be sure to look at them, even if you do not read it.

The Chinese usually do business at a restaurant with dishes typically chosen by the host, usually a regional delicacy. If the occasion is truly special a private dining room will be reserved.

As with Japan, the two-handed business card rule also applies.

These are just a few examples of proper travel etiquette. The main thing to understand is that knowing just a little about the cultural mores of a destination can make travel considerably more pleasant and hassle-free.

Do your homework.

Friday, February 8, 2019

Last Post: A poignant reminder of World War I


Buglers sound the opening for Last Post held each night in Ypres, Belgium  (Courtesy: Last Post Association)

YPRES, BELGIUM — Each night in the small Belgian town of Ypres, traffic on the east side of the city stops at 7:30 on the road through the Menin Gate Memorial. It is a traditional salute to the fallen World War I warriors that has been on-going since 1929

The ceremony is known as the Last Post, and it has become part of daily life in Iepre (Ypres) where the local people share in a simple poignant tribute to the courage and sacrifice of those who defended their city.


Menin Gate in Ypres
(Courtesy: Last Post Association)
The Menin Gate Memorial, which in some ways looks like a smaller version of the Arch de Triumph in Paris, opened in 1927 at the site of the original old city gate leading to the Ypres Salient battlegrounds and the Menin Road. It was here that many British and Commonwealth troops marched on their to the Allied front.

While most Americans will be sleeping on Sunday morning, the 100th anniversary of the armistice that ended fighting on land, sea and air in World War I will be officially observed at 11 a.m. Paris time.


Large crowds have gathered nightly for 100 years to honor the missing at Menin Gate  (Courtesy: VisitFlanders.com)
On "the 11th hour of the 11th day of the 11th month" a century ago, the Allies marked their victory over Germany, though it was not a formal surrender.

Appropriately the Last Post at the Menin Gate Memorial has been observed every evening, regardless of weather, since November 11, 1929.

The only exception came between May 20, 1940 and September 6, 1944 when the Germans once again occupied Ypres during World War II. Even then the ritual continued in England at Brookwood Military Cemetery in Surrey.


Poppies are a symbol of WWI
(Photo: Taylor)
Interestingly enough, on the very day the Poles liberated Ypres during the Second World War, the Menin Gate ceremony resumed despite heavy fighting in other parts of town. If visitors look closely they can still see bullet marks from that period in history.

The Last Post is a serendipitous event where crowds are sometimes small, but usually quite large, especially in summer. Visitors wishing to watch the ritual should arrive early in order to get a good vantage point.

Disabled travelers can and should notify security forces in the area who will provide an unobstructed place to observe the sounding of the bugles at 8:00 p.m.


Ypres was completely destroyed during the war
(Courtesy: Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington, New Zealand)

Regardless of whether there is a massive crowd or not a single person in attendance, the busy through road is closed to traffic for one hour each evening. Today, however, it is rare for the memorial to be empty at any time of year.

At precisely 7:55 p.m.,  3 to 5 buglers from the local volunteer Fire Brigade arrive and stand ready at the eastern entrance of the memorial.

A hush falls over the crowd and stillness shrouds the surroundings.



The ceremony is always moving, reverent and respectful
(Courtesy: (Last Post Association)

Precisely at 8 o'clock four buglers march forward. Solemn. Dignified. Reverent. The moment for the Sounding of the Last Post has arrived.

·      The ceremony has two formats. When no participants or wreath layers are present the program follows this order:
·      Call to Attention by the buglers of the Last Post Association.
·      Sounding of the “Last Post” bugle call.
·      Minute of silence.
·      Sounding of the “RĆ©veille” bugle call.
·      End of Ceremony

Usually the ceremony is extended to include anything ranging from music by a visiting band, choir, orchestra or a parade with standards and military personnel.

It is acceptable for anyone wishing to lay a wreath to participate. Last Post officials will inform individuals and groups who want to lay a wreath what to do and when to do it.

For planning purposes and further information, an app is available to explain all you need to know about taking part in a ceremony. You can go to the Last Post Association website to download a link for the app.


Each ceremony follows a specific pattern, yet somehow they all vary slightly  (Courtesy: Last Post Association)

The extended ceremony agenda is slightly different consisting of:

·      Call to Attention by the buglers of the Last Post Association
·      Sounding of the “Last Post” bugle call.
·      Exhortation
·      Minute of Silence
·      Lament (if a piper is present)
·      Wreath laying
·      Sounding of the “RĆ©veille” bugle call.
·      End of Ceremony

The Exhortation may be the most powerful part of program, for it is at this time that a member or guest of the Last Post Association, a visiting dignitary or a visitor is invited to recite the fourth verse of Laurence Binyan's poem For the Fallen.


The region is dotted with graves
(Courtesy: Commonwealth War
Graves Commission)
Standing in the center of the road beneath the arch of the Hall of Memory, which is inscribed with the names of 54,395 Commonwealth soldiers who died in the Salient but whose bodies have never been identified or found, the reader recites the following haunting words:
They shall grow not old, as we that are left grow old:
Age shall not weary them, nor the years condemn.
At the going down of the sun and in the morning,
We will remember them.

Wreaths of various sizes can be ordered from the Royal British Legion at Aylesford in Kent. The Royal British Legion website has all the information about wreaths, chaplets, sprays and crosses that are available. There are also ribbons and regimental crosses.

Ypres was a strategic location during World War I because it stood in the path of Germany's intended sweep across the rest of Belgium.


"Atteenn-huutt!"
(Courtesy: Last Post Association)
It was equally important for the Allies too, since Ypres eventually became the last major Belgian town that was not under German control.

Thus the site for the Menin Gate was chosen because it was the closest gate of the town to the fighting, and Allied soldiers marched past it on their way to fight.

And so, on "the 11th hour of the 11th day of the 11th month" take time to remember the valiant warriors who made the ultimate sacrifice one hundred years ago, so that we may enjoy the liberties and freedoms we have today.


Ypres' Menin Gate is the ideal place to honor the heroes of
World War I  (Courtesy: VisitFlanders.com)
"The Last Post" lives forever in the minds and hearts of the families and friends whose loved ones endured the horrors of World War I's killing fields. We, too, salute them and should never forget their contributions.