Thursday, March 2, 2017

Take a champagne tour to South Africa at a beer price

The King of the Jungle nestles in the warm afternoon sun at Karongwe River Lodge
(Lasater)
SOUTH AFRICA -- Among the top "dream trips" for people who love to travel is a photo safari in Africa. Unfortunately, one of the biggest drawbacks is the cost.. For now, at least, Charlotte tour operatior Safarais by John Lasater is offering a trip of a lifetime to South Africa and environs from May 14-24 for the unbelievably low ground price of $1,853 per person.
Karongwe Lodge (Taylor)
Air from Washington Dulles, as well as all internal South African segments, is approximately $1,350. All accommodations are rated 4 or 5 stars and many meals are included.


For most photographic safaris, the quest is to view the "Big Five" consisting of the African lion, African elephant, Cape buffalo, rhinoceros and the African leopard. The term was coined by big-game hunters back in the days when shooting animals with guns as trophies was preferable to shooting pictures.
Out for a stroll, an African elephant is one of the Big Five
(Lasater)
The Big Five refers to what was said to be the five most difficult animals to hunt on foot along with the degree of danger involved to hunt them.

South African banknotes from 1990 and feature a different Big Five animal on each denomination. Though no guarantee to see them all can be made, the ultimate goal for travelers to South Africa and other countries in Africa is to view the Big Five animals.
A big "hippo" yawn  (Lasater)
John Lasater, founder of Safaris by John Lasater, has spent most of his adult life traveling through Africa and working there. Thanks to numerous contacts he has made in more than 60 visits to the "Dark Continent", Lasater is able to negotiate with the same outfitters as larger tour operators but, with no middle man, he is able to make African dream safaris affordable.
The Cape Town skyline is alluring with marinas and Table
Mountain (Taylor)
The tour begins at the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront area in Capetown with over 450 shops, restaurants and bars near the Victoria and Alfred Hotel.
Mountains spill into the sea along the coastal road outside Cape Town  (Taylor)
Driving along the Atlantic coastal road, which has earned the title "Nature's Greatest Show", it is almost a safari in miniature with baboons, rhebok, Cape Mountain zebra, bontebok and eland visible within the scenic beauty of the Table Mountain range and views of the Twelve Apostles.
Shanty towns still exist
(Taylor)
It wasn't so very long ago that South Africa, despite its incredible beauty, was boycotted by many travelers due to apartheid. Those scars still exist and the shanty towns are prevalent, but South Africa is a work in progress. The historical opportunities to explore the sites where Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu have made such important contributions are a major part of the cultural fabric of the country.

Mandela became a symbol of hope and progress
(Taylor)
South Africa is noted for its wines, so the intermediate stop en route to finding the Big Five is a brief visit to some of the better wine making operations in the region.

The hotel on this leg of the journey is the Oude Werf Hotel nestled in the heart of the Cape Winelands. Don't worry if you cannot pronounce the name, after a couple of glasses of wine and you'll speak like a native.
South African wines are first rate  (Taylor)
The ultimate prize, of course, are the safaris themselves which operate out of Karongwe River Lodge near Kruger National Park. For the next four nights, Karongwe is home and all meals are included. Be sure to enjoy a Kudu steak at least one night during your visit.
Zebras enjoy a late afternoon cocktail party  (Lasater)
Safaris begin early in the morning and late in the day when the animals are more likely to venture forth in search of food and water.
 
Specially designed jeeps provide
maximum viewing (Taylor)
Specially designed tiered vehicles allow maximum viewing as two-man teams drive and scout in search of the animals. With his perch at the front of the jeep, the scout scans the road for fresh tracks and other signs of recent activity.

Karongwe prides itself on having first-rate guides with years of experience. The guides know exactly how to approach various locations without "spooking" the animals. Since several safaris are in progress at any given time, the naturalists stay in touch with each other to provide information about sightings as well as making certain they do not infringe upon the viewing of others with too many vehicles.
Viewing animals is up close and personal  (Taylor)
Be it morning or afternoon, each safari stops for a brief break for coffee, tea or soft drinks and a snack before continuing onward. Every effort is made to see as many animals as possible, but there is a special effort to make sure the Big Five can be captured on film.
Warthogs mowing the grass
(Taylor)

The middle of the day is reserved for relaxation and enjoying the reserve. The warthogs are particularly photogenic being that they so ugly they are cute.

There are also pre or post tour options to Zimbabwe (Victoria Falls), Chobe National Park or Botswanna. Prices are available at the Premium Safaris website.
African leopard on the lookout for its next meal  (Lasater)
If the thought of a photographic safari in Africa has ever stirred your imagination, seek out the Big Five in South Africa. The price will never be better.

Thursday, February 23, 2017

Luxurious cave hotel on Santorini, Greece

Sugarcube dwellings atop Santorini seem like snowcapped peaks
(Taylor)
SANTORINI, GREECE – Santorini is arguably the most popular spot in the Greek Islands. Perhaps it is because it comes beckon the imagination with legends, history, ancient civilizations and the mythical link to the Lost City of Atlantis.

Santorini is the southernmost island in the Cyclades of Greece. From the water, it appears to be a snowcapped mountain ridge in the center of the deep blue waters of the Aegean Sea. Closer inspection however, reveals a breathtaking skyline of brilliant white "sugarcube houses" nestled atop the largest island of a circular archipelago that is the remnant of a volcanic caldera.
Fira as seen from above
(wikipedia)


On Santorini you quickly discover what captured the imagination of the ancient Greeks and their myriad of mystical legends.

Rising from the watery remains of a once powerful volcano are majestic caldera cliffs that reach heights of 1,000 feet to create some of the most stunning views and dramatic sunsets in Europe.
The beguiling Aegean caresses Santorini's shores (wikipedia)
Picture in your mind skyblue domes perched upon white bleached stone that stares out to the infinite horizon of a vast ocean of blue that defies description. Then imagine sipping a glass of Greek wine by the pool of an elegant boutique hotel that has literally been carved into caves nestled upon the highest point of the island and you have a recipe for heaven on earth.
A blue-white dreamscape at Iconoic Santorini
(Iconic Santorini)
The  village of  Imerovigli is just such a place, for it is home to a distinctly unique boutique hotel called Iconic Santorini. With its extraordinary multi-level setting at the crest of Santorini's mountainous spine, Iconic Santorini has been awarded the honor of "Greece's leading boutique hotel" for three years running.
Minataur, Greek legend
(wikipedia)


Featuring 19 residences and rooftop decks with balconies and terraces that emerge from hideaway caves, guests shed their cares surrounded by the awesome serenity of some of the most idyllic scenery in the world.

In a sense it is the best of two worlds, as visitors can still get their "Greek on" with authentic cuisine, architecture and culture while savoring all the luxuries of 21st century living including private routers for hi-speed wi-fi and COCO-MAT bedding.

The setting is so all encompassing guests often feel as though they have died and gone "Hellenic."
All the comforts of home, even in a cave  (Iconic Santorini)
Santorini has been the site of a dozen or more eruptions over the ages, and it also claims to be the site of one of the largest volcanic explosions in recorded history. The Minoan Eruption, which happened roughly 3,600 years ago at the height of the Minoan civilization, is believed to have been a cause for the decline of the Minoans on the island of Crete some 68 miles to the south. Many experts believe a massive tsunami resulted from the Santorini eruption.
North Portico, Knossos on
Crete  (wikipedia)
Another popular legend is that the volcanic activity on Santorini is the source of the stories surrounding the mythical lost city of Atlantis.

Today, Santorini is basically the ruin of what was once a single island that became a large rectangular lagoon stretching approximately 7.5 miles in length and 4.3 miles in width. Santorini is surrounded on three sides by cliffs which dramatically slope down to the Aegean.
Never enough wine or pistachios on Santorini  (Iconic Santorini)
Visitors to the island can arrive by motorized vehicles, but many cruise passengers prefer to ride to the top on a donkey or take the cable car.
No Santorini sunset ever goes unforgotten  (Iconic Santorini)
Four of the 12 volcanic eruptions were large enough to  form caldera, but the most devastating was the one in Thira which was the most famous single event in the Aegean region before the fall of Troy.
Iconic Santorini, where serenity and tranquility go for a vacation
(Iconic Santorini
In modern times, cruise ships sail into the caldera providing the stunning "snowy" appearance at the crest of Santorini, but the caldera was formed hundreds of thousands of years ago when the center of the circular island collapsed into the sea.
Room with a view
(Iconic Santorini)
Perhaps one of the most surprising things about Santorini is the quality of shopping in its hilltop villages. Shop-aholics will have no trouble locating just about all the finest stores, shops and boutiques that are available in New York, London, Paris, Rome and Hong Kong.

Santorini is alluring because it is so distinctive. After a long day of shopping, exploring ancient villages, riding donkeys or just plain old soaking up the sun, return to Iconic Santorini for a glass of wine and the best pistachios in the world.
Sunrise at Iconic Santorini  (Iconic Santorini)
Savor a breathtaking sunset where omnipotent hands use the entire sky for a canvas. And finally, relish an elegant candlelight meal before heading into your cave to hibernate in anticipation of another day in Atlantis.



Thursday, February 16, 2017

Basel & Ernst Beyeler: State-of-the-art in Switzerland

The Tinguely Fountain in Basel is a favorite for all ages
(wikipedia)
BASEL, SWITZERLAND  Ask ten people where is the oldest public art museum in the world? Unless you area from Switzerland, you might guess Italy, France or Spain, but you would be wrong.

Italy does claim three of the top ten, but not the oldest. The Louvre in Paris is also among that list as is the British Museum in London.
Basel's Fine Arts Museum is one of the oldest and best in the world  (wikipedia)
Would you be surprised to learn that Basel, Switzerland takes the honor with the opening of the Amerbach Collection in 1671. In fact, per capita, Basel probably has the highest percentage of quality art of any city its size in Europe. And you better believe that Baselers take that distinction seriously.

Nearly three centuries after Basel went "public" with its art, it became the first city in history to hold a public referendum for the purchase of art when the Fine Arts Museum bought several works by Pablo Picasso in 1967.
Picasso as photographed by
David Douglas Duncan
(duncan)
In many ways, it was the alignment of the stars, geography and history that played a significant role in Basel's love of art.

Situated at a bend in the Rhine River where Germany, France and Switzerland meet, Basel became a major crossroads in the commerce of the day along the river.

Switzerland is also one of the oldest, if not the oldest, democracy in the world, which gave the country a strong commitment to making things public for all of its citizens.
The Roman ruins of Augusta Raurica outside Basel  (wikipedia)
With the advent of the printing press and mass communication now a viable commodity, literacy rates increased dramatically throughout Europe and personal philosophies began to change with the Protestant Reformation from an emphasis on religious ideals to a greater awareness of the humanities.
Beyeler Foundation, Basel
(wikipedia)

 By 1970, three gallerists, Trudi Bruckner, Balz Hilt and Ernst Beyeler conceived the idea of establishing an international art exhibition in Basel. This year marks the 47th anniversary of Art Basel which presents 20th and 21st century art from the world's premier galleries and their patrons.

Today, the Basel art fair has expanded to Hong Kong and Miami Beach as well with a reputation for showing the highest quality work from international galleries and collectors throughout the world.
Basel sits on a bend in the Rhine bordering France and Germany  (wikipedia)
In its inaugural year in Basel, 90 galleries participated from 10 countries attracting over 16,000 visitors.

By 2015, Art Basel accounted for 98,000 visitors over a six day period with 284 galleries presenting works from 33 countries in Basel alone. The exhibition represented the contributions of more than 4,000 artists.
Art Hotel Der Teufelhof
(Taylor)
With 77,000 visitors in Miami Beach and 70,000 more in Hong Kong, the combined patronage for the three cities amounted to approximately 245,000 patrons in 2015.

Basel native son Ernst Beyeler, one of the founders of Art Basel, was not always an art a collector. He had originally intended to become an economist but, in another quirk of fate, World War II kept him from leaving Switzerland. As a result, Beyeler became and apprentice in an antique book store in Basel and, when the owner Oskar Schloss died, Beyeler took over at the age of 24.

Beyeler had a natural instinct for artistic quality and, within two years, he held his first exhibition of Japanese woodcuts.
One of Ernst Beyeler's pieces looks out to the grounds of his museum  (wikipedia)
In the early 1960s, Beyeler purchased 340 works of art from American collector G. David Thompson. The collection included art by Braque, Cezanne, Paul Klee, Matisse, Monet, Picasso and Mondrian. Beyeler later purchased 70 more pieces by Alberto Giacometti from Thompson.

By 1970, Ernst Beyeler and his two colleagues opened the international art fair in Basel, and it has been a resounding success ever since.

Oddly enough, over the years, Beyeler's personal collection had grown so vast, that there was no place for him to display his exhibition. After spending several years searching the world for an appropriate exhibition space, Beyeler came to the conclusion that he should create the museum in his home town of Basel.

When the Beyeler Foundation opened its doors to the public, the sheer size of the collection astonished the art world and made it an overnight sensation. "The Washington Post" valued the collection at more than $1.85 billion and the "New York Times" called him "Europe's pre-eminent dealer in modern art."
Every room at Der Teufelhof is unique  (art hotel der teufelhof)

"The Daily Telegraph" described him as "the greatest art dealer since the war", who "assembled one of the world's most impressive collections of 20th-century paintings."
A Tinguely contraption is always filled with whimsy 
(wikipedia)
Ernst Beyeler died on February 25, 2010 at the age of 88. He, along with countless other artists and collectors from the city of Basel, Switzerland, have established a reputation for presenting world class modern art that transcends the meaning of creative genius.

This year, Art Basel in Switzerland runs from June 15-18.

In a city where art thrives for art's sake, Basel is one of the best kept secrets in the world.

Thursday, February 9, 2017

Wanderlust can be dangerous and incurable

The glorious splendor of Monet's gardens at Giverny  (Giverny.org)

CHARLOTTE, NC It is a well-documented adage that if you travel long enough and far enough you will ultimately encounter life-altering experiences. I have been fortunate many times over in that regard, and with that thought in mind, I wish to share some of my personal adventures in the hope of creating a bit of wanderlust for you.
Steam train in Scotland
 (wikipedia)
Like many Americans, when I began traveling I was addicted to the automobile.  No matter where I went, the thought of not having wheels to get me around was foreign to me, until I discovered trains.  Wonderful, delicious trains.  Panoramic trains.  High speed trains.  Luxury trains.  Overnight trains.  Narrow gauge trains.  Funiculars.  Cogwheels.  Rack railroads.
French TGV races past the Riviera near Nice  (raileurope.com)
On a train I can read, or sleep, or walk to the bistro car for something to eat.  I have restrooms and a place to wash my hands and face.  I don’t have to read a map or understand road signs.  If I miss a train, another will come along in an hour or so. 

At a railway station, I can find food, exchange money, get directions, book hotel reservations, get a newspaper, ask for information and even replenish items such as toothpaste or shaving cream and the like.  Trains usually connect city-center with city-center, so your are literally in the heart of a destination when your arrive.

All you need to do is "train" yourself.
Tilting Cisalpino in Italy
(raileurope.com)

I have personally experienced the rush of being in the engineer’s cab of a French TGV traveling at 186 mph while passing another TGV from the opposite direction.

In the air, I flew on one of the famed Concordes before the fleet was grounded by a horrible accident and SSTs disappeared from the lexicon of aviation forever.
British Airways Concorde takes off  (wikipedia)
I even rode in the cockpit for an hour just before the pilots landed at Kennedy Airport in New York. 
Michelangelo's magnificent Sistine Chapel frescoes (wikipedia)
I viewed the Sistine Chapel ceiling before, during and on the first day of its completed restoration.

I felt the oppression of Russia and Romania under their Communist regimes and visited the former Yugoslavia before it was ravaged by war. 
Shakespeare's Globe, London
 (wikipedia)


I toured the new Globe Theater in London while it was still under construction.

I was lucky enough to be in Stockholm one winter for the presentation of the Nobel Prizes. 

There was a dugout canoe trip on the Orinoco River in Venezuela searching for fresh water dolphins while fishermen stood on the shore catching piranhas in their nets.
World's highest waterfall, Angel Falls in Venezuela  (wikipedia)
I rode a camel in Lawrence of Arabia's desert, and on another occasion, toured Petra on horseback. 

Travel has broadened my knowledge of art. I have learned something of music and visited the apartment where Mozart once lived in Vienna, which surprisingly functions today much as it did centuries ago.
Abby Library, St Gallen
(wikipedia)

There was a visit to the exquisite Abby Library in St. Gallen, Switzerland and whitewater rafting above the Arctic Circle in Sweden.

Travel has provided me with a personal list of "favorite things.”  I developed a fondness for Sherlock Holmes after watching Jeremy Brett bring Conan Doyle’s character to life on the stage in London.
Sherlock Holmes statue Meiringen
(wikipedia)


So intrigued did I become that I even went to Meiringen, Switzerland to climb to the crest of Reichenbach Falls where Holmes and his arch-enemy, Moriarity, fought to the death in The Final Problem.

In Italian Days, Barbara Grizzuti Harrison taught me about the seductiveness of balconies, especially those that are hidden so as to allow the anonymous, voyeuristic pleasure of watching the world down below. 

Never underestimate the view from a balcony  (Taylor)
Sidewalk cafes have much the same appeal, only from street level where I can still be anonymous, yet become an active participant in the eternal, yet ever-changing pageant of life.

Another aspect of my evolution is walking.  I have come to realize that setting out by foot in a new destination can lead to all sorts of interesting treasures.  The serendipitous elation of finding something new when it is least expected, produces an optimism within me that I cannot describe. 
Statue of Christ the Redeemer in Rio  (wikipedia)
And then there are colors.  Little did I realize that color can be so markedly different from one place to the next.  Scandinavian colors are nothing like those of Italy or Normandy.  The Impressionists figured it out.  Monet and his cohorts painted the same scenes over and over again because the dappled light of northwestern France changes so rapidly. 
Colors and shades are different everywhere,  Chateau Chambord, France  (wikipedia)
Landscapes come alive in varying shades and textures that burst into a kaleidoscope of hues.  Pastels turn to vivid brilliance and in seconds become muted earth tones or silhouettes, altered by the eternal movement of the sun amidst ever-changing clouds.
The Duomo in Florence is a mixture of earthtones and breathtaking architecture  (wikipedia)
Florence, Italy, on the other hand, is a city of earth tones and mist; umber buildings, caramel facades, toasted hills, amber bridges and eggshell sculptures.  It has a gentle light.  There is a subtle softness that adds character to its ancient monuments and vintage architecture.  It isn’t the same texture as the colors of Venice, Rome or Amalfi. 
Summer colors in Sweden are intense and vibrant  (wikipedia)
In Scandinavia the light is intense.  Everything is chiseled and bold.  It’s as though life is viewed in High Definition.  Everything is magnified; lustrous; vibrant.  Colors are deep and primary. 

The sun isn’t soft in Scandinavia.  It doesn’t play hide and seek with the atmosphere as it does in Normandy.  Nor is it subdued like Florence.  In Scandinavia, light is flamboyant. There is no such thing as mellow light.  It is electric. 
Taj Mahal, Agra, India -- The world awaits to be discovered  (Taylor)
Travel in its own unique way presents new worlds beyond the old. Search and discover with an open mind and you will never be disappointed.