Friday, June 19, 2015

Environmental paradise in paradise at the Lodge at Chaa Creek in Belize

Thatched roof luxury amid the jungle surroundings of Belize at Chaa Creek Resort  (Taylor)
BELIZE – Chaa Creek Resort in Belize bills itself as “wildly civilized.” And rightly so.  But it hasn’t always been that way. Wild? Yes. Civilized? Not so much.

The Fleming's river route to the market  (Taylor)
It began in 1977 when two young globetrotters arrived in Central America with little more than the clothes on their backs and an adventurous spirit. Soon after, Mick and Lucy Fleming met the owner of a dilapidated 140 acre farm located on the western edge of Belize about four miles from the border of Guatemala. In true entrepreneurial style, the Flemings figured a way to purchase the property and the rest is history.

Before long Mick and Lucy were living in a thatched roof house in the middle of the jungle. While the land was producing milk, yogurt, cheese and eggs, the Flemings were producing two children.
Belize is filled with natural beauty and Mayan ruins  (Taylor)


So thick was the forest surrounding the land, there was no access road to the property. To make a living Mick and Lucy paddled their produce to market by dugout canoe to San Ignacio just as the native Maya had done ten centuries earlier.

Living so close to the land had a profound affect on the Flemings. They became environmentally savvy and, as time passed, they began to develop a philosophy that contemporary luxury could also exist in harmony with nature.

Today Mick, with his tussled hair, khaki shorts and shirt and mud-covered boots, resembles a modern day version of “Jungle Jim.” His youthful exuberance is infectious. It takes just one encounter with the owner to understand how Chaa Creek Resort evolved into an elegant paradise in the middle of the Belizean jungle.

Serene serpentine walkway to thatched cottages at Chaa Creek in Belize  (Taylor)
Four years after buying the land, Mick and Lucy opened a thatched roof jungle lodge. It was the first of its kind in Belize. Today, the jungle has been replaced by lush landscaping and more accommodations.

By 1983, the British Army Corps of Engineers had built a road. In the same year, a dining room was added to cater to the six existing cottages. Six more cottages followed two years later, along with indoor plumbing and a 6,000 gallon water tower.

Preserving the environment is the Fleming's philosophy  (Taylor)
For more than three decades the Flemings have dedicated their lives to “stimulating interest in the environment and local culture.”

Though larger now, the original garden still provides most of the produce used in the resort restaurant. With more than 60 species of vegetables, herbs and fruit trees, the 30-acre Maya Organic Farm is a favorite tour for guests.

Even the swimming pool is environmentally designed with salt water that continuously circulates and re-cycles.
Chaa Creek's environmentally designed salt water swimming pool recirculates and filters the water  (Taylor)
Activities include a private 365 acre nature reserve, miles of well maintained nature trails, nature hikes, birding, horseback riding, mountain biking and canoeing on the Macal River which flows beside the property. There is even a rainforest medicine trail where naturalists showcase the importance of medicinal plants, their uses and the need for conservation.

A one car crank ferry takes visitors to Xunantunich (Taylor)
Thanks to Mick’s unlimited creativity and imagination, the Blue Morpho Butterfly Farm propagates one of the most beautiful butterfly species in the world. The butterfly farm and nature centre are complimentary for guests. Others pay $5 U.S. plus tax.

Popular off-property tours of Mayan archaeological sites include Xunantunich and Cahal Pech situated on a hill overlooking San Ignacio. Both are just a 30-minute drive from Chaa Creek.

Mayan ruins at Xunantanich in Belize  (Taylor)
For the more adventurous, try caving at Actun Tunichil Muknal, known as the “place of fright,” or Barton Creek Cave which is part of one of the longest archaeological sites in Belize. These activities require the ability to swim and the physical capability of being able to climb on rocks and boulders.
The caves at Actun Tunichil Muknal, known as "the caves of fright", have great appeal for adventure travelers  (Taylor)
Like all of Belize, Chaa Creek incorporates traditional thatched roof architecture. Since opening in 1981, the property has expanded to 23 cottages including two Treetop Jacuzzi Suites, two Garden Suites, an Orchard Villa and the Honeymoon Sky room.

Rates are seasonal. From December 16 to April 30, cottages are $235 per person for a single, $165 per person double or $125 per person in a triple. The rest of the year is priced at a per person price of $215 (single), $150 (double) and $115 (triple). Suites and villas are priced per room accommodating between 2 and 6 people depending upon the size of the space. High season prices range from $380 to $625 per suite. Low season goes for $350 to $575 per suite.
Belize beckons in many ways thanks to its rich history, culture and scenic beauty  (Taylor)
Within easy walking distance of the lodge, traveler’s on a budget may want to stay in one of ten Casitas located on the banks of the Macal River. The rustic accommodations are strategically nestled amid an undisturbed jungle habitat. Each Casita features two to four beds, oil lamps and fresh linens. Bathrooms and showers are shared but have no lack of hot water. Prices, including breakfast and dinner, are $55 U.S. per person per night plus tax and service.  

Friday, June 12, 2015

Roger the ‘Roo: From joey to “Hey Joe”

A baby kangaroo, called a "Joey," roams the 90-acre Kangaroo Sanctuary in Central, Australia  (The Kangaroo Sanctuary)


NORTHERN TERRITORY, AUSTRALIA – Move over Floyd Mayweather and Manny Pacquiao, there’s a new kid on the block, and his name is Roger.

Talk about buff!

Roger, the well-toned kangaroo (Kangaroo Sanctuary)
Roger is the kangaroo equivalent of Arnold Schwazenegger in his prime, and he’s making big news in the “Land Down Under.” At 6 feet 5 inches tall and weighing in at 200 pounds, the 9 year old marsupial is….well shall we say “ripped.”

Back in 2005, Chris Barns rescued his first “joey,” or baby kangaroo. He became so passionate about the idea of saving kangaroos and educating the public about caring for the large hopping Australian beasts that he quit his job to open The KangarooSanctuary in Alice Springs. Today Barns’ wildlife reserve features 90-acres of untouched bush-land where his mob of 25 kangaroos live.

A “mob,” by the way, is the proper term for a group of kangaroos.

Thanks to donations from fellow Australians and other international assistance, Barns, or “Brolga” as he has come to be known, went on to build his wildlife refuge between 2009-11. Since then Brolga has become the subject of a BBC/National Geographic documentary called Kangaroo Dundee. And the star of the show is, of course, Roger the Roo.

Roger as a Joey  (Kangaroo Sanctuary)
To say that Roger is “chiseled” is an understatement. Weighing just 2 pounds when he was rescued by Barns from a roadside in 2006, Roger now boasts a physique that has made him an international celebrity.

Say Brolga, “I rescued Roger from his dead mother’s pouch in 2006 when he weighed just 2 pounds. Today he’s a beautiful 200 pounds of ‘Aussie muscle,’ I am so proud of him.”

Roger’s favorite pastime, when he isn’t wooing the ladies, is using his strength to crush metal buckets. Naturally Roger’s hobby has made him the star attraction for visitors who come to view his magnificent bod.

According to Barns, red kangaroos can live for more than two decades in the wild, and the bigger they are, the more likely they are to have success with the ladies. Based on Roger’s headshots, he will be well satisfied for the rest of his life.

“Roger probably isn’t finished honing his guns,” adds Barns. “He’s still growing, so he’ll get bigger.”
Roger is definitely a ladies man  (Kangaroo Sanctuary) 
Though he is now 9 years old, it appears there is no “midlife crisis” in Roger’s future.

If you are not careful Roger can still be a powerful force to reckon with, even when he is just having fun. “You never stand and trade blows, not that I would, you don’t want to get within kicking range of Roger,” Barns told News Corp Australia. “Just his hands can scratch you up badly. Recently he gave me six stitches in the groin. You’ve got to understand that big male kangaroos have the potential to disembowel you. I was very lucky recently getting away with just a few stitches.”

Crushing metal buckets is a favorite activity  (Kangaroo Sanctuary)
Judging from the photos, Roger has free range to go wherever he likes. When he is not crushing metal feed buckets, Roger spends his days grazing on grass and grains and kick boxing. Oh yes, and pleasing the female contingent of the mob.

On the other hand, Roger does have a softer side as evidenced by they way he cuddles with his favorite stuffed bunny.

Guided tours at Alice Springs Kangaroo Sanctuary are approximately two and a half hours long on Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays when visitors can experience the kangaroos awaking from their naps.

As Brolga says, “Roger’s natural instincts as a grown male tell him to fight me. So we have a level of respect for one another now. I run from him.”
One of the kangaroo mob at the Kangaroo Sanctuary poses as Kangaroo Dundee  (Kangaroo Sanctuary)

So from “Pal Joey” to “Kangaroo Dundee” Roger the Roo has become one spectacular specimen of physical fitness. 

Friday, June 5, 2015

Grythyttan, Sweden: The town that became a hotel

Winter in the tiny village of Grythyttan, Sweden where the entire town is virtually a restful inn  (wikipedia)
GRYTHYTTAN, SWEDEN – One of the great joys of travel is the serendipitous magic of finding a destination that have been largely overlooked by the guidebooks. Grythyttan, Sweden is one of those  “treasures of discovery”; those indefinable little places, because it is quite literally “the town that became a hotel,” and therein lies its charm.   

Located approximately 200-miles NW of Stockholm, Grythyttan was virtually a ghost town until the mid-1960s. 

Wine cellar dining at Grythyttan  (Communities Digital News)
Originally Grythyttan prospered as a place to stable horses for travelers going to and from Stockholm since the once a thriving community in the 17th century was a midpoint along the road to the silver mines in the region. It was known as an “up-and-down” village because travelers would stop on their way up from Stockholm or on the way back down. The result, Grythyttan’s Gästgivaregård (roughly translated to mean “guest house”) became a popular inn that was known throughout the country for its hospitable charm, its gastronomic excellence and its exquisite wine list.

In 1641, Queen Kristina issued a decree that an inn be built every 55 miles along Sweden’s newly constructed country roads. Each inn was to provide separate accommodations for the three distinct social classes of the day as well a stable that could house a minimum of 24 horses.

Following Queen Kristina’s edict, Grythyttan quickly rose to prominence as the ideal model for the project.

Nightfall in the quiet streets of Grythyttan  (Grythyttan.com)
Eventually, Grythyttan’s Gästgivaregård fell into disrepair and, by the end of the 1960s, the inn was in such a state of ruin that it was scheduled for demolition. At the 11th hour the local heritage society intervened and saved it with a one vote margin of victory.  Arthur Lindqvist and Yngve Henriksson were then assigned the task of renewing the spirit of the inn to its once elegant past.

Enter a flamboyant, 26-year old, antique dealer named Carl Jan Granqvist and the reputation of Grythyttan quickly returned to its former grandeur.

Lace curtains highlight a room at the inn  (Communities Digital News)
In the spring of 1973, Grandqvist reopened the hostelry comprised of 22 buildings with 60 rooms and suites.  Each was exquisitely filled with antique furniture and appointed with artwork created by local craftsmen. Even the inn’s former dungeon was converted into a candlelit wine and cheese cellar.

Despite a population of less than 1,000 residents Grythyttan has more or less returned to a semblance of its past thanks to the innovations of Grandqvist and the patronage of the pop singing group ABBA during the 1980s. Today Grythyttan is home to the chef and restaurant management school known as the Gyrthyttan School of Hospitality, Culinary Arts & Meal Science.

Each room is unique  (Communities Digital News
For 25-years Grandqvist managed the property with such style and flair that the town soon became the “inn” place to go for a relaxing respite for the rich and famous.  With his well-deserved reputation as one of Sweden’s finest gourmands and wine connoisseurs, the flashy entrepreneur frequently entertained guests during summer months with free chamber music concerts at his villa just outside of town.  To accomplish this, Grandqvist provided complimentary accommodations to members of the Stockholm Philharmonic who in return performed in the evenings for guests and villagers alike.

Grythyttan is roughly shaped like a large roundabout with roads radiating like the spokes of a wheel from the central section of town into other areas of the region.  The main inn is situated on a wide spot along one of the country roads leading into town.  Rooms are scattered throughout the property in more than twenty buildings which were once stables, haylofts, blacksmith shops or any one of a variety of buildings that made the town prosperous.

In summer the golden field of Sweden are so brilliant they almost hurt your eyes  (wikipedia)
Though Carl Jan Grandqvist no longer adds his personal touch to Grythyttan’s Gästgivaregård, his personality still survives in this tiny Swedish village that became a hotel.


Here’s a tip.  Arrive in mid-afternoon.  Enjoy the spa.  Wine and dine in elegance. Spend the night.  Savor the magic.

Friday, May 29, 2015

Lucerne’s Hotel Schweizerhof: Another place where B.B. was King

The grand Hotel Schweizerhof in Lucerne, Switzerland as it looked in 1896  (Hotel Schweizerhof)
LUCERNE, SWITZERLAND – From the moment you enter the lobby of HotelSchweizerhof in Lucerne, Switzerland, you sense you have stepped back in time. And with it you are surrounded by the aura of ghosts from centuries past who, until now, may have only been references points in the pages of history.

Lake steamer in Lucerne  (wikipedia)
Nestled along the shores of the Lake of Lucerne which spills into the rushing waters of the River Reuss, Hotel Schweizerhof stands proudly encircled within a bowl of majestic Alpine peaks. Here you are whisked back in time with barely a challenge to your imagination. This is a place where the golden age of travel beckons, and with it the 19th century splendor of historic surroundings and the personalities who brought it to life.

Richard Wagner finished Tristan and Isolde here. During his visit he also encountered “Mad” King Ludwig II of Germany who built the famed Neuschwanstein Castle in Bavaria.
 
Mark Twain wrote about the Rigi near Lucerne  (wikipedia)
Mark Twain stayed at the Schweizerhof during a grand tour of Europe while gathering material for Innocents Abroad.

Leo Tolstoy spent time writing at the hotel, describing his experience in July, 1857 this way:
“As soon as I went up to my room, and opened the window facing the lake, the beauty of the sheet of water, of the mountains, and of the sky, at the first moment literally dazzled and overwhelmed me. I experienced inward unrest, and the necessity of expressing in some manner the feelings that suddenly filled my soul to overflowing. I felt a desire to embrace, some one, to tickle him, or to pinch him; in short to do to him and to myself something extraordinary.”

Early postcard of Hotel Schweizerhof during the Golden Age of Travel  (Hotel Schweizerhof)
More recently, Neil Armstrong, the first man to walk on the moon, took another “small step” as a guest.

Even the famed American blues singer, songwriter and guitarist, B.B. King spent time in Lucerne’s Schweizerhof while appearing in concert at nearly 80 years of age.


Schweizerhof Bar pays tribut to B.B. King  (Hotel Schweizerhof)
On the day he departed, King wrote in the guest book, “To you and the staff, many thanks. B.B. King.” The message is now immortalized at a table in the Schweizerhof bar.

B.B. stood for “Blues Boy”, by the way.

It’s an eclectic mix that reads like a who’s who of emperors and empresses,  kings and queens, writers, poets, politicians and business magnates from all over the world.

But that’s only the beginning, for Lucerne has long been a traveler’s paradise. Combined with its nostalgic links to a more genteel day, there are powerful reminders that time can indeed stand still, even in the 21st century.

The lobby of Hotel Schweizerhof hearkens to an earlier era of luxurious travel  (Hotel Schweizerhof)
The Schweizerhof is a family affair. It opened in 1845, but has been operated by the Hauser family since 1861. Today, owners Patrick and Michael Hauser are the fifth generation to manage the property. Among their modern innovations are “wall tattoos“  which personalize each room with detailed information about celebrity guests from the past.

The terrace is a gathering spot for guests  (Hotel Schweizerhof
Don’t let its grandeur fool you. The Schweizerhof retains its family hospitality and charm with 19th century style and 21st century comfort. Look no further than the charming lobby elevator with barely enough room to accommodate two people – without luggage. A beguiling seat beckons road-weary guests to rest during the methodical ascents and descents. Speed and space are of little consequence, for time does not matter to those who yield to the pace of days long ago.

Situated just a few hundred yards from Lucerne’s famed 14th century Chapel Bridge, or Kapellbrucke as it is known to locals, the Schweizerhof overlooks the westernmost point of the lake where passenger boats regularly arrive and depart to other historic villages along its shores.
Lucerne's Chapel Bridge is an international landmark that is the oldest wooden covered bridge in Europe   (wikipedia)
The Chapel Bridge is the symbol of the city. It is the oldest wooden covered bridge in Europe as well as the world’s oldest surviving truss bridge. In August of 1993, the bridge caught fire, destroying two thirds of its historic interior paintings and killing one person.

So important was it to the city as such a recognizable landmark, it was quickly rebuilt and re-opened to the public by April of 1994.
Cog train takes travelers to the summit of Mount Pilatus  (wikipedia)
Lucerne is a treasure trove of museums, Alpine vistas, Swiss history and colorfully painted architectural facades. With its central location in the German speaking region of the country, it is an ideal to use as a base for day trips.

Wall tattoos are a modern innovation  (Hotel Schweizerhof)
When long days of sightseeing are finished, Hotel Schweizerhof becomes an enticing oasis of elegance just beyond the miniature maze of alluring streets that lead to the captivating old town of Lucerne.

Rates at Hotel Schweizerhof are seasonal with standard double rooms beginning at about $470 during high season which runs from April through October. At other times of the year, rates start at approximately $385 per night. Breakfast is not included.

The Lion Monument is another Lucerne landmark that captivated Mark Twain  (wikipedia)
Hotel Schweizerhof in Lucerne rekindles the spirit of the past with a unique blend of capturing the essence of days long forgotten and turning them into the memories of a lifetime.

Friday, May 22, 2015

Great Britain by Train: An ideal international family vacation

The magnificent Royal Crescent of Bath, England sits on a hill overlooking the famed Roman spa  (wikipedia)
LONDON – International family travel is a growing trend as grandparents are joining grandchildren in journeys that are both memorable and educational.

When it comes to international family travel, there may be no better starting point than Great Britain and there is no more convenient way to go than by train.
Modern British trains glide through history  (wikipedia)

A journey through the UK by rail is time travel by train. It is a beguiling destination for Americans that beckons us to savor its spirit. A place for legends and myths to merge with historic truths to create the ideal blend of fact and fiction.

Much of the appeal of the British Isles has to do with heritage and tradition, for this is a land of “once upon a time.” It is a place where the procession of history thrives within its own timelessness.

Jousting was popular in Medieval England  (wikipedia)
Consider literary characters and personalities, imagined and real, who pass through our minds as voices personified in a panoramic parade of poetry and prose: Macbeth and Lear and Hamlet; Tom Jones and Henry Higgins and Eliza Doolittle; Oliver Twist and Ebenezer Scrooge and Phileas Phogg.

There is an aura of mystery and suspense as well. Stonehenge, the Tower of London and the Loch Ness Monster; Sherlock Holmes, Jack the Ripper and Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde appear out of the mists.

Kings and queens have their own special allure in this land with its stories of King Arthur’s knights, Henry VIII, Victoria and Elizabeth and today’s royal family.
King Henry VIII was one of many notorious English monarchs  (wikipedia)
Truly this is a land for all seasons, enveloped by the richness of its history -- and trains are the ideal links to those legacies. British rails connect us to a cavalcade of culture that is familiar to us all.

Robert Louis Stevenson wrote a classic horror story  (wikipedia)
In many ways, the roots of our American spirit can be traced to the glories of the British past, and trains are pathways that lead us through the tunnels of time to new moments of discovery.

They take us to the birthplace of golf past neat fields, through a sea of vivid green tumbling landscapes that one writer said creates a sense of being at the “midpoint of creation.”

Trains pass by, and travel to, walled towns and haunting ruins. There is a medieval quality to it all; an ancientness enhanced by a kaleidoscope of colors amid heather carpeted hills and echoes of untamed vistas.

They reveal castles, estates and stately mansions, which are monuments to the works of man that are as engrossing in their own way as works of nature.

Castles are in abundance throughout the United Kingdom  (wikipedia)
British trains come to rest where the Romans once bathed in natural spring waters. Where cobblestone streets are squeezed into narrow alleyways beneath half-timbered houses. Where distant pastures can be seen through empty archways or as British journalist and writer H.V. Morton noted, “Where every meadow has a valet.”
Scotland is famous for its heather carpeted hills and deep lochs  (wikipedia) 
No trip is complete with visiting a pub  (wikipedia)
Taste the traditions with a full English breakfast. Have tea with Devonshire cream and scones. Try fresh fish chips or perhaps enjoy a pint of ale with locals in a country pub.

Meander through the countryside where sheepdogs bark in the distance and hedgerows and rock walls give order to things.

In Scotland and Wales a panorama unfolds as the landscape rises and falls past muscled peaks, fertile fields and dense forests before giving way to deep Scottish lochs or the embraces of the Irish Sea.

Steam train crosses the historic Glenfinnian Viaduct in Scotland  (wikipedia)
Diversity creates the character of Great Britain, and it is this variety that refutes the concept that “there are no more unknown places.” You see, every place is unknown until you experience it yourself.

Britain’s compact size offers concentrated travel experiences unlike any other, and the rail system makes it convenient to use one city as a base for individual day trips that seem like mini-holidays within themselves.

York is still surrounded by its wall  (wikipedia)
From London, for example, head north to the walled city of York. Journey to the Roman ruins at Bath. Spend a quiet afternoon in the gentle surroundings of the Cotswolds. Explore Shakespeare’s Stratford and visit Trinity Church where he is buried. Or stroll among the historic “rows” of Chester.

All are within easy reach, yet still close enough to have you back in London in time for the theater.
Prices for point to point tickets and passes vary according to distance, time of day, level of service and, even, a traveler’s age. Rail Europe is the complete one-stop shop for answering all of your individual questions and providing the best options for your particular itinerary.

Pulteney Bridge in Bath remains a commercial center filled with shops (wikipedia)
British trains do, indeed, tell tales of “once upon a time.” As someone once wrote, “the past is no ghost at this banquet, rather it sits at the head of the table.”

For American family travelers, our links to Great Britain are powerful reminders of our own heritage which is no more characterized than by sharing a common language.
The Tower of London was built by William the Conqueror and later housed many famous prisoners  (wikipedia)

Listen to the rails of Great Britain, for here legends do linger and the rails are the “ties that bind.”

Friday, May 15, 2015

Stein am Rhein, Switzerland: Medieval magic, colorful facades and oriels

Half timbered houses, frescoed facades and oriels make Stein am Rhein a picturesque treasure  (wikipedia)
STEIN AM RHEIN,SWITZERLAND – All too often travelers become so wrapped up in checking cities, attractions and sights off their list that they fail to achieve their primary reason for traveling…discovery. 

Alfred North Whitehead reinforced that notion when he wrote “One main factor in the upward trend of animal life has been the power of wandering.” 

 “Hidden treasures” are the essence of travel and Stein am Rhein, Switzerland is one of those “treasures.”

Quaint narrow streets of Stein am Rhein  (wikipedia)
In many countries Stein am Rhein might be considered remote.  Not in Switzerland.  While it may be off-the-beaten-path, the accessibility of the Swiss Travel System, combined with its proximity to Schaffhausen, Winterthur and other delightful spots along the River Rhine and Lake Constance, make Stein am Rhein a great place as a base for day trips.

The tiny municipality is a jewel in the canton of Schaffhausen.  Stein am Rhein, which translated means “stone on the Rhine”, lays claim to being the best preserved medieval town in the country, featuring some the finest half-timbered houses in Switzerland. 
 
Stein am Rhein is famous for its bay windows and intricately painted buildings  (wikipedia)
If you take your time, you can walk leisurely through this outdoor museum and back in thirty minutes.  Frescoes adorn the facades of the buildings and oriels, or bay windows, overlook delightful cafes and storybook streets.  In some places, the layers of time have elevated the streets enough to even force strollers to duck beneath those bay windows to walk under them.

Aerial view of Stein am Rhein  (wikipedia)
Situated along the shores of the Rhine, just a short distance from the place where Lake Constance spills into the river on it way to the North Sea, Stein am Rhein became a strategic location during the 11th century.  It was then that Henry II, the fifth, and last, Ottonian emperor of the Holy Roman Empire, moved St. George’s Abbey from Hohentwiel in Singen to what was little more than a quaint fishing village. 

Over time, commerce grew along the river and Stein am Rhein flourished.  The monastery, which was abandoned during the Protestant Reformation, remains a highlight for visitors today.  Located near the Town Hall Square, St. George’s Abbey Museum, as it is commonly referred to now, dedicates its exhibitions to local art and history.  Perhaps of more interest however, are the ceilings, paneling and murals of Thomas Schmid and Ambrosius Holbein.

St. George's Abbey on the shores of the Rhine, Stein am Rhein, Switzerland  (wikipedia)
Abrosius, the son of Hans Holbein the Elder and the older brother of Hans Holbein the Younger, lived in Stein am Rhein in 1515 while assisting Schmid with the murals in the main hall of the abbey. 

With a population of 3,000, Stein am Rhein is only twice the size it was during the 1800s.    

Hohenklingen Castle on a hill overlooking the village (myswitzerland.com)
Adventurous travelers can walk up to the Castle of Hohenklingen, a 13th century fortress overlooking the city where they can see the Lake of Constance and the Alps when weather permits.

For less ambitious visitors, there is still plenty to explore including the frescoed facades of the buildings which depict biblical and historical themes throughout town.  In addition, the oriels that elegantly perch above the streets, are symbols of the city’s former affluence, as are the paintings.

Even today, ownership of the frescoed buildings in Stein am Rhein comes with serious obligations to the history of the village.  As a condition of proprietorship, a titleholder must agree to maintain the paintings in the same condition as the originals without compensation for the investment.

Stein am Rhein is a great place for a stroll  (wikipedia)

With its Lilliputian size, Stein am Rhein is built on a human scale.  It is a charming place for walking and exploration.  Most people begin their strolls at the 16th century Town Hall, pausing frequently to admire the frescoes and oriels before stopping at a café along the way to simply savor the surroundings.

You can access Stein am Rhein by car, boat or rail.  The train station sits on a hill across the river
from the main village, but it is only a short walk across the bridge which spans the Rhine.  Bike rentals are available at a kiosk at the railway station.  For 32 Swiss francs a day there are several well-marked bicycle paths along both shores of the river.  Schaffhausen is just 13-miles to the west or you can peddle eastward to Kreuzlingen which is 18-miles away.
Rhine Falls near Stein am Rhein is the largest waterfall in Europe  (wikipedia)
There is also regular boat service between Kreuzlingen, which is easily accessible by rail or car, and Schaffhausen.  Cruises meander through a beautiful region that alternates between Switzerland and Germany.  Among the special sights are the Rhine Falls, Europe’s largest waterfall, just outside Schaffhausen.  The cascading torrents of water can be likened to Niagara Falls in miniature.

Another popular place for an outing is nearby Winterthur with its remarkable private art exhibition at Am Romerholtz.  The Oskar Reinhart Collection is known throughout the world as one of the finest of its kind.  Featuring the work of artists such as Monet, Renoir, Van Gogh, Miro and Klee to name a few, the Reinhart Collection is displayed in a private residence rather than a museum.  Just 17-miles from Stein am Rhein, Winterthur is a convenient 40-minute train ride to the south with hourly service throughout the day.
Am Romerholz, home of the Oskar Reinhart art collection in Winterthur, near Stein am Rhein  (wikipedia)
For the traveler who seeks a quiet destination far from the madding crowd yet accessible to a rich diversity of scenery, history, quaint villages and world-class art, Stein am Rhein is a gem to consider.